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 ADVANCED
The Prow Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pretty Face T 
Beast Flake, The T 
Edge of the World S 
Faux Pas Arete, The T,S 
Gypsy T 
Liquid Sky T,S 
Peanut Gallery Flake T 
Prow, The T 
Recompense T 
Women in Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Peanut Gallery Flake 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Henry Barber 1973
Page Views: 3,938
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Laura climbing the fingers and hands section of Pe...

Description 

This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.

If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.


Location 

This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".

From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.


Protection 

Regular rack plus some WIDE cams.



Photos of Peanut Gallery Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....
Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....
Converse gettin in on the groveling
Converse gettin in on the groveling
Comments on Peanut Gallery Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Mar 26, 2007

I belileive that the top fifteen feet or so is bigger than a #6, either run it out, or you will need a big bro or two. This route has awsome exposure.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

I think Kenny Sims made the first lead of this route. He did have some problems with clipping in the wrong rope too! Anyway a good pump- also the arete to the right is a good tr 11B

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 30, 2009

This is one of my favorite pitches of climbing on Cathedral...barndoor laybacking, sinker hand and fist jamming, and some decent offwidth action, most of it slightly overhanging...you can't go wrong! The exposure is fantastic, too.