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Horse Rampart
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Peanut Butter 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Bobrunning on Sep 6, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: PB starts on the face and follows the corner to th...

Description 

Climb the lower face to the ledge. Continue on the left corner. The crux of the route is the section past the ledge.


Location 

Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia. The route is around the corner to the right of Mung.


Protection 

The lower section has no option for pro.



Photos of Peanut Butter Slideshow Add Photo
Rhoads putting in the first pro.
Rhoads putting in the first pro.
Comments on Peanut Butter Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

No pro to the ledge but is sucks it up after that.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2011

I managed to get in one small RP and a marginal Metolius Purple TCU then a Red BD Micro cam to protect the bouldery start moves (anyone of which were a bit sketchy alone but OK as a system). This climb is way fun on the lead and especially fun as an onsight. The upper moves are steep and unsure as to what's coming from below but good when the committment to them is made.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Burt, where? Around the corner to the left?

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2011

Nope... Got these placements right on the face itself that make up the starting moves of this climb. I am thinking most folks would just dismiss any of these sketchy gear options I mention and just boulder the start moves because you get chunky hand and foot holds after the first 10-15 feet of hard pulls but they are there and will protect the start moves atleast marginally.