I managed to get in one small RP and a marginal Metolius Purple TCU then a Red BD Micro cam to protect the bouldery start moves (anyone of which were a bit sketchy alone but OK as a system). This climb is way fun on the lead and especially fun as an onsight. The upper moves are steep and unsure as to what's coming from below but good when the committment to them is made.
By Doug Hemken Administrator Sep 29, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Nope... Got these placements right on the face itself that make up the starting moves of this climb. I am thinking most folks would just dismiss any of these sketchy gear options I mention and just boulder the start moves because you get chunky hand and foot holds after the first 10-15 feet of hard pulls but they are there and will protect the start moves atleast marginally.