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 ADVANCED
Chocolate Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Combination Corner T 
Gallows, The T 
Mc-Crack-En T 
Minute Maid T 
Peanut Butter and Jam T 
Potzo's Pudding T 
Shortcake T 
Spinach T 
Zacker Cracker T 

Peanut Butter and Jam 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, Dave Hop. January 1973.
Page Views: 1,858
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Jan 19, 2006

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Jonny attempts the crux move on Peanut Butter and ...

Description 

Peanut Butter and Jam is a typical Joe Herbst offering on the right hand side of the Chocolate Rocks featuring awkward offwidth moves.

Build an anchor at the top, walk off left to the slung boulder atop Mc-Crack-En and rap with one rope.


Protection 

Standard rack with an emphasis on wide gear up to a #5 C4 Camalot and an optional green Big Bro. Small cams or Ballnutz protect the crux.



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Peanut Butter and Jam
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 1, 2007

Wish I had read John's description above before attempting this one. Without a #5 Camalot, the last 20+ feet of awkward, flaring bomb bay/squeeze chimney is virtually unprotectable. The largest thing I had was a #4 Camalot and it was completely tapped out. Made for an exciting lead.