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Peanut Brittle 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Diesen
Page Views: 1,820
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009
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Thought-provoking and sustained 5.9+ that earns its plus rating around two thirds of the way up at a balance/slab crux. Avoid the urge to veer towards the easier chossy left side around the third bolt. Very well bolted with chain anchors.


Bolted face just left of the obvious crack (Cracker Jack).


bolts, chain anchors

Photos of Peanut Brittle Slideshow Add Photo
Amy at the first crux section.
Amy at the first crux section.
Me leading peanut brittle.  One of my favorite 5.9...
Me leading peanut brittle. One of my favorite 5.9...
Just past the balance/slab crux. Good view of the upper half of the route.
Just past the balance/slab crux. Good view of the ...
Mike on at the anchors
Mike on at the anchors
1st crux
1st crux
Todd K on Peanut Brittle.
Todd K on Peanut Brittle.
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From: Mesa AZ
Oct 29, 2009

Totally! Great Climb. I would agree. Dont cheat yourself... There is a good dedicated move to the right that you'll do, and then thank yourself that you did!
Great finish as well!

By scottcundy
From: tucson, az
Nov 1, 2009

Really great route - thoroughly enjoyed it and was actually a bit giddy afterwards. Fun somewhat blind moves to good stances.

By BAd
Dec 31, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Superb, must-do route. Question: When does 5.9+ become 5.10a? I think this qualifies as the later.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Dec 7, 2012

Thought this was an amazing route. Felt 10ish to me. For this shorty, it had lots of blind moves. Great little roofy type finish. Loved it.

By Adra
From: Anza, CA
Mar 6, 2014

This was a really fun route with three distinct cruxes. The holds are some what "hidden" at these cruxes - if you wait and feel around you will find them, however!