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 ADVANCED
Peak 11,300

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South West Ridge 

Peak 11,300  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,300'
Location: 63.0026, -150.87801 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,856
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on Jul 22, 2007  with updates from Martin le Roux
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Taken from around the same spot as the Puryear gui...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Peak 11,300 is one of the last high points on the southeast spur of Denali. The peak is located off of the west fork of the Ruth glacier just north of Mount Huntington.

Getting There 

The peak is often approached from any of the common landing areas in the Ruth gorge. Landing at the base of the south west ridge is also possible.

Protection  

An alpine rock rack, pickets and 4-6 ice screws. Most of the climbing is on rock and snow, but ice screws may be needed for the final 500' and the upper part of the descent.

Puryear's guidebook suggests 1-3 days for the climb and 6-12 hours for the descent. Allow more time for the descent if the upper part of the SE ridge is mostly ice.

Climbing Season



Weather station 41.9 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Peak 11,300:
South West Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4100'   
Browse More Classics in Peak 11,300

Featured Route For Peak 11,300
The Southwest ridge of peak 11,300.  Photo by Andy...

South West Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow  AK : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300
Description This classic route deserves a spot on every aspiring alpine climber's to-do list. The ridge offers sustained moderate difficulty with over 4000 ft of vertical rise in an amazing setting. The rock quality is generally good and objective danger acceptably low. Joe Puryear's guidebook has a very detailed description and topo. Here's a summary that's meant to supplement that description. - Start on the LHS of the ridge at 7,000'. Climb 40-50 degree snow for about 1,000' to reach the ridg...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Comments on Peak 11,300 Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2008
This peak should be under "Ruth Gorge".
By Captain America
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 1, 2014
Here is a link to our recent 2014 trip.

theicefall.blogspot.com/