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Children's Crag
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Peaches 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe Herbst and friends
Page Views: 4,119
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Jul 21, 2005

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Peaches

Description 

Take the Petroglyph Wall Trail to the interpretive sign at the base of the crag. About 30 feet left of this area, Peaches goes up the prominent right leaning dihedral that is capped by a roof. Climb straight up this dihedral and then escape right around the overhang. The closest escape on the right goes at 5.7, go further right for the 5.5 route. You can take on the 5.9 variation by going left at the roof and doing a sweet, pumpy lieback up the overhanging crack. This climb is well protected and has good rock quality. Walk off right.

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Peaches Slideshow Add Photo
Peaches
BETA PHOTO: Peaches
Overhanging lieback on the 5.9 variation of Peaches
Overhanging lieback on the 5.9 variation of Peache...
The 5.7 variation of Peaches. Note the 5.9 overhanging lieback variation to the left and the 5.5 crack to the right of Mike.
The 5.7 variation of Peaches. Note the 5.9 overhan...
Evan Allen on Peaches
Evan Allen on Peaches

Comments on Peaches Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2014
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Aug 6, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The 5.5 Peaches is a fun, mellow lead. The walk off is pretty fun also.
By Shawn Overstreet
From: Jackson, Wy
Apr 18, 2008

The "walk off" is hardly that. It involves quite a bit of worming your way through not so nice prickley bushes and a solid 5th class move with 100+ feet of exposure. If you or your partner aren't comfy with these, I'd highly suggest bringing up a second rope (120' I believe) as there is a rap station on a tree at the top. It's also easy to use said tree as your anchor to belay the second up. No anchor building skills needed.
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Aug 19, 2008

I led this route on Sunday morning and it was nicely shaded. Had a bit of trouble at the top, needed some extra slings and just ran short. I traversed right of the roof after the crux and continued up the 5.5 route to the top. We knew the descent was a traverse right but it had been a long time since we had been up there and we were a bit uncomfortable with the exposure.

We did not have two ropes and a 60 meter will not reach the ground from the rap ring/anchor. I climbed above the route through a 5.2 section and then we began crossing the terrace,heading east. FYI, if this happens to you, simply head south across various ledges and boulders and the canyon will rise up to meet you. There is a nice 3rd class path that leads down from the terrace. Once you are on the deck, it is about a 5 minute walk back to the base.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 10, 2008

There currently (Nov 08) is not an anchor there. The downclimb was a bit of work but we certainly didn't have to do any 'solid 5th class' moves to get down.
By Ron Graham
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There is one section in the walk-off that appears to be quite exposed if you want to walk your way around it, but if you get down and crawl under the bulge that makes it appear so exposed, it's quite safe and easy to get passed without a belay. As of February '09, there is a rap station at the top of Peaches that requires two 60M ropes to rappel. There is also a set of hangers with chains above the anchor to Sumo Greatness that you can rap directly from or use for belaying yourself down to the Sumo Greatness anchor to rap off of that. Both the Sumo Greatness anchor and the anchor above it can be rapped with a single 60M rope.
By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Walkoff is a little exposed, but careful route finding renders it manageable.

Anchor on tree is quite solid. Bring some extra shoulder length slings to extend the pro you place as you approach the roof.

By staying left and working the crack through the roof, it's a solid 5.9.

Staying under the roof keeps it a good 5.7.

Going right onto the face makes this a 5.5.
By Tyson Anderson
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As of today the rap slings are gone.
By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
Mar 22, 2010

The rap slings are back and you can (just barely) rap the route with a single 70m rope. Loved the .7 variation.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 9, 2010

Slings on tree as of 4/2010. Nice route - loved the crack moves. Perhaps the route listing here should match what's in the Handren book, 5.7, with the 5.5 as a variation?
By dawgstarr
Apr 23, 2010

Slings gone Friday 4/23
By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 26, 2010

Sling on the tree as of 4/25/10
Good climb, but for a beginning lead a little sketchy.
By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jul 3, 2010

The sling is still on the tree today. Although the belay at the top was in the sun, the corner was fully shaded even at noon, making this a bearable climb on a hot summer day. The 5.7 variation is fun and a bit challenging in the squeeze on the right side of the roof.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Slings still there as of 3/12/2011. The 5.7 is the way to go. Very good- I love Joe Herbst.
By zachw
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Do the 5.7 variation, its a gem. But do be ware that the crux can be a bit spicy on an onsite lead. A fall at the wrong time would swing you into the corner pretty hard. So just don't fall when liebacking and squeezing into the chimney!

Slings, etc are still on the tree, but we built our own anchor off the tree for good measure.

The walkoff is also straightforward, but just be prepared for a funky and exposed 3rd class move about half way across the cliff band.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2012

A reasonably fun route to lead. It continually goes up and right, so the rope drag gets annoying, you could use half ropes for practice with that technique - then do the double rope rap from the tree.

Even though this is apparently 5.6-5.7, I somehow got myself in the position of doing a moderate move underneath some marginal rocks wedged in the corner about half way up. Apparently I should have gone right onto the face - but I think I skipped that because the protection out there seemed to be lacking.
By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 variation. Slings on tree, got back to the ground with a 70m. Not as good as all the hype suggests. Bonus points if you sing ANY of Peaches' songs while leading this route.
By BROsenthal
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 20, 2014

After we climbed Peaches, we found an overhang above it to the right. We scrambled above it and dropped top ropes. Does anyone know anything about this?