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Peacenik 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Rangel et al
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Jun 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Megan follows p2 and she is in perfect form for th...

Description 

Getting established on the steep start is difficult, then the final clip is a tad far, but clipping off a jug. That is pitch one. The next pitch is the crux, move off a good right hand to a tips sidepull and a high left foot made this an awkward rock over. Then a difficult finish to boot.


Location 

From the ledge/trail next to Great Race, 4th class to the large Oak/ledge above and look for bolts right of Warhippies.


Protection 

10 bolts to climb to top (if you climb the third pitch of Warhippies)



Photos of Peacenik Slideshow Add Photo
Laurel is two moves from the crux on the first pitch.  It's a flat tips-deep pocket, but the feet are not very good.
Laurel is two moves from the crux on the first pit...
Megan tip toes to the bulge on first pitch of Peacenik.
Megan tip toes to the bulge on first pitch of Peac...
Comments on Peacenik Add Comment
Show which comments
By Laurel
From: Phoenix
Jun 21, 2008

Thanks mannny for freaky picture, fun consistant moves on P1, P2 has great moves and than they become desperate, being yogalicious will help

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jun 22, 2008

I get that look all the time from you!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yogalicious would definitely have helped on 2nd pitch! First pitch is great, but it's not clear whether to climb straight over the bolts with crimpy nonexistent holds or move right with smooth, fluid, much more fun climbing that it also easier.

It is possible to rap these climbs (Gone Grey, War Hippies, Peacenik) with a 60 m rope. 60 m reaches the main ledge from anchors on top of first pitch of War Hippies and Peacenik. It also reaches the start of Peacenik from the top of the second pitch, after which it's a moderate downclimb to the main ledge, or a second rap. This second pitch anchor is what you need to stop at when rapping from the top.

By RyanJames
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Peacenik is a GREAT climb, especially when linking with the top pitch of warhippies. The crux is also height dependent that is much, much harder the shorter you are. I'd say a solid 5.12 if you're under 6 feet tall and 11+ if you're over 6'. Overall though, this climb is badass.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yup, having now done the 2nd pitch clean and being well under 6', I can safely say that the crux move is height dependent. Reaching that key hold is way, way hard for us shorties!! And, wow, is that 3rd pitch ever terrific -- well worth getting to it.