Peace In Our Climbs
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- *I'm not so sure about this route's gear quality, as I've only worked on it on TR, though I've heard that it can be led relatively safely immediately above the low-placed, Metolius bolt with an offset Alien. Also, the new ADK Guidebook suggests a rating of 12a; however, holds have broken off, and have reportedly made this routes quite a bit harder (I've even heard grumblings that its crux is harder than that of Zabba's.)
Start with a wicked hard series of crimps, foot smears and lock-offs to gain the bottom of the shallow finger crack (crux--HARD!!). Once established in the crack, finding the proper position, and jams is paramount, as it continues to be pumpy all the way to the top.
Personally, I think with more traffic, a bit of cleaning and maybe even a new bolt placed a bit higher, this could become an even more popular line.
(If you've led this, PLEASE chime in with your account of this route.)
Directly below the final vertical finger crack of "It's Only Entertainment". A bolt about 8 feet up in orange rock below a small ceiling marks the beginning of the route.
Again, I haven't led this; however, it looks as though it takes nothing larger than a red Camalot. Small wires, a good assortment of gear in the finger size, and steel nerves (up to the finger crack, at least) would probably be your best bet.
|Comments on Peace In Our Climbs
|By jamie Hamilton|
From: santa fe nm
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.12 R
In response to Chris's post I have lead this route. If you want to try to onsite this you should read no further. After the bolt which I stick clipped I got a bad small rp something like a #2, i don't remember the exact size. Shortly after that I got a blue green offset alien which for me was critical to get into a more secure section of the finger crack. After that it is mid 5.11 with great gear to the top. Also I think the grade of 12+ is a bit generous, but i am bad at that sort of judgement. It is a great route; and personally I would be sad to see it retro bolted although replacing the existing bolt might be a good idea. Hope this was helpful
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Sep 13, 2009
Thanks for the gear description, Jaime.
|By Matt McCormick|
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.12c R
I tried to lead the line this weekend and apparently should go on a diet as I first broke the best foot at the start and then broke one of the key crimps off. Jamie still fired it after and I was able to do it on top-rope. I'm psyched to get back and lead it. I think a grade of 12c would be appropriate and I agree that I would like to see the old bolt replaced but not placed any higher as that would drastically change the character of the route.