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Peace In Our Climbs
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in The Spider's Web
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dacker Cracker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Je Me Souviens T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Jelly Arms T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ku Klux Ken T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycanthropia, Her Way T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Skeleton Key T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Chris Gill, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 2,523 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
- *I'm not so sure about this route's gear quality, as I've only worked on it on TR, though I've heard that it can be led relatively safely immediately above the low-placed, Metolius bolt with an offset Alien. Also, the new ADK Guidebook suggests a rating of 12a; however, holds have broken off, and have reportedly made this routes quite a bit harder (I've even heard grumblings that its crux is harder than that of Zabba's.)
Start with a wicked hard series of crimps, foot smears and lock-offs to gain the bottom of the shallow finger crack (crux--HARD!!). Once established in the crack, finding the proper position, and jams is paramount, as it continues to be pumpy all the way to the top.
Personally, I think with more traffic, a bit of cleaning and maybe even a new bolt placed a bit higher, this could become an even more popular line.
(If you've led this, PLEASE chime in with your account of this route.)
4 Comments