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Snowshed Wall
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Thing, The 
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Welcome to My Nightmare 

Pea Soup 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 30, 2002
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Description 

Climb the largest continuous crack on the far left side of the north face of the Snowshed wall. The crux is the first ten feet, and after that the climbing is simpler until a commiting move on the top of the route to get on the top slab. There is a shortcut that bypasses the crux by climbing the ledge on the left up to the crack, this route is called Split Pea (5.8).

Rappell off the anchors to Karl's Gym (5.10d) which is found by wandering down and left on the slab on top of the route.


Protection 

small friends and nuts on the bottom (1.5"), and any size gear will work in loads of placements on the top.



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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 18, 2009

There are rappel anchors/chains at the top of this route.

Tricky gear up the vertical first 1/3 of the route. Small to very small cams and nuts helpful here. Nothing above a 1" piece is really needed for any part of the route, although I brought a 2 and tried to put it in one of the horizontals you come to at the start; however, it was too small. A #3 would fit.

I found doubles on .75 useful.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

A little more heads up than I thought it would be.

Tricky gear in sections between horizontal cracks.

Bolted anchor approximately 100' from the ground. Keep heading up the slab after you finish the initial vertical section.

First 10' are for sure the crux.

By Scott T
From: Alpine Meadows, CA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not sure I agree with "loads of placements up top" referring to the slab section. There are only a few placements for sm-med nuts and microcams. The placements are shallow but good if you take the time. I always find this part to be the crux; maybe the crack start off the ground favors taller climbers as I am 6'4".

By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Heads up for the first 30'. An offset blue/purple MC protects the move from the first rail to the second rail and takes the edge off this thing.