Pea Coat Sleeve
|282 page views|
Just to the right of Bad Brains is this well protected sport climb. Fun climbing and very, very good varnish. It may be a bit squeezed in but the line is separate.
6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
BETA PHOTO: Just a shot to help people find the route.
|Comments on Pea Coat Sleeve
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 28, 2005
By modern standards this climb is well protected and by JTree standards the climb is sewn up. Enjoy a well protected 10b bolt climb - a JTree rarity. The climb is protected by 6 bolts and leads to a two bolt anchor that had a couple of slings and biners on it as of Dec 2005.
The crux is above the 4th bolt. I found the rock on the route to be loose/sandy, and some of the holds to be a little weak. The climbing is on positive holds on the lower section and balancey smears and slopers on the upper section. If the route sees more traffic and gets cleaned up it will be a nice route. Still, I enjoyed it.
I think 10a is a better rating for the climb, but it will probably get harder as holds break off.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I did this route with no knowledge of it's rating to taint my opinion and thought it to be 5.10b. Although there were a few superfluous bolts low down, it was by and large OK, due to the number of insecure moves up high for which a bolt was not bad to have. Fun route overall.