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Lower Grotto Wall
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Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
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One for the Road S 
Pea Brain S 
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Unknown 13b? S 
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Wire and Fire T,S 
YQ T,TR 

Pea Brain 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lynn Hill, John Long
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 5, 2012

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Description 

I'm adding this route to the DB in order to make route identification across this section of the Lower Grotto Wall easier. I'm not sure of the history of this route, but it's one of the few routes on the Pass attributed to Lynn Hill and John Long. The route follows 3 widely-spaced SMC-type bolts to who-knows-what (can't see any anchor from the ground). The climbing between each of the bolts is scary: a fall approaching the second and third bolts could easily result in a groundfall.

From John Long: "Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed because there were some huge reaches on crakopla. Must have been 5.13 the way she did it. Hope somebody replaced those old SMC bolts. They were bad 30 years ago."

Location 

This is on the smooth shield of rock down and around the corner from Cryogenics, to the left of the base of the fallen dead tree. Look for 3 widely-spaced SMC-type bolts.

Protection 

[4] bolts, ?anchor?


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By John Long
Apr 5, 2013

Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed because there were some huge reaches on crakopla. Must have been 5.13 the way she did it. Hope somebody replaced those old SMC bolts. They were bad 30 years ago.
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Apr 5, 2013

Hey John- thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto Wall lately, and this could make a nice addition.