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PCP Pinnacle

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Angel Dust T 
Crystal Method S 

PCP Pinnacle  

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Submitted By: aaron voreis on Dec 30, 2003
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Across the road from Rosy Lane Campground look up. You will see an obvious pinnacle with a 165ft 5.9 splitter up the center that mirrors the Rosy Lane buttress.

Climbs from left to right are:

11+ Ecstacy (5.7R start) bolts and 1 #0.5 Camalot. 1 60m.
9+ PCP crack (5.9+ to the ledge and 10c R to the summit. Trad, 2 60m.
11 Free Base Face (crack start to bolted roof) long pitch. Mixed, 2 60m.
11 Angel Dust Arete (shares start w/ FBF then to arete). Mixed, 2 60m.

All of these routes are very high quality, sustained pitches.

Getting There 

Across the road from the Rosy Lane Campground. Park on right side pullout not in the campground.

Climbing Season

For the Taylor Canyon area.

Weather station 10.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for PCP Pinnacle:
Angel Dust   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Crystal Method   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in PCP Pinnacle

Featured Route For PCP Pinnacle
PCP Pinnacle 5.9

Angel Dust 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Gunnison : ... : PCP Pinnacle
Angel Dust is the splitter hand and finger crack that runs straight up the middle of PCP pinnacle. Clearly visible in the photo as well as from the road it is the most prominent feature on the wall. There are two ways to finish this climb. The splitter crack ends at a horizontal ledge about 25 feet from the summit. The standard and easier finish traverses left on this ledge about 15 feet and then goes up a delightful and well protected right leaning hand crack. This way goes at solid 5.7. The di...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of PCP Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Angel Dust.  This sucker is really hard...
Looking up Angel Dust. This sucker is really hard...
Side view of the pinnacle.
Side view of the pinnacle.

Comments on PCP Pinnacle Add Comment
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By phil broscovak
Jan 17, 2004
The tower is indeed called PCP pinnacle, but the route in the picture is actually called "Angel Dust". John Rosholt and I put up this route in the later half of the Seventies. I would consider this a must do Taylor Canyon route of high quality. Just remember the routes on the east side of the Taylor River are invariably looser than the climbs on the west side. So be careful out there.
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