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BETA PHOTO: PBR
Climb easy slab to a harder corner then up 3 small roofs. Crux moves are at the 3rd and 5th bolts with a great jug at the 4th to rest at. Two ring anchors up left after the 5th bolt.
Just right of Corona.
5 bolts to ring anchors.
Aug 4, 2012
During the redpoint today, I pulled off the slopey sidepull that I'd been using to clip the 3rd clip. It's now a flat ledge just like the two below it in the corner. Might be a little harder to reach the clip now, but the hold is actually bigger. Crux is pulling the large roof above 4th bolt, couple of ways to go about it. Chain position results in a lot of rope drag when coming down. Least aesthetic line on the crag in my opinion.
|By Tyson Taylor|
Aug 22, 2012
Use long slings on bolts 3, 4, and 5 to reduce the lower out drag. I opted to rap from em instead of the typical lower out.
I kept thinking I had to be off route. For the grade to be accurate/sustained, it seems the large foot holds on the right corner leading up to the roof should be avoided.