PBR Street Gang 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Tai DeVore, Todd Townsend 2010 G.U. |
| Season: | Spring, fall, early/late summer |
| Submitted By: | Jason Chinchen on May 28, 2011 |
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Looking up at the crux roof on pitch 4.
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Description Climb 6 pitches of really good granite.
P1- climb the water worn groove on the far right side of PSOM Slab to a ledge. *OR* Climb the better looking pitch to the left (The High Life) up cracks and an undercling section to three bolts and anchors. (5.9)
P2- Move right and climb the seam to anchors. *OR*
P3- Continue in the seam to the next anchors under the roof system.
P4- Climb through the roof (crux)with hand jams and then clip a bolt and go left under the roof and then up to anchors.
P5- Climb the flaring chimney/corner. Good rock and adequate protection.The anchors are out on the face to the left *OR*
P6- Skip this anchor and go straight to a ledge and then up and left to the last anchors.
6 raps with one 70 M rope. Watch the ends as a few are rope stretchers.
Location Go uphill all the way along the PSOM Slab to the 4th class gully and start up the route.
Protection Standard trad rack, double med sized cams and a set of nuts.
"The High Life" first pitch variation
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Anne cruising through fun liebacking on Pitch 3.
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Looking down Pitch 2.
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Getting funky at the crux.
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| Comments on PBR Street Gang |
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By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 11, 2012
| FYI, this route will feel harder if you are under 6 ft tall, and/or have short legs, and/or have small hands. It is fairly straight forward to step in a sling to get over the roof, but if you decide to just go for it, be prepared for 5.9+++! |
By rickziegler
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| Lots of good 5.7 - 5.8 climbing on this one. If this thing was in Yosemite, people would be lining up to epic on it everyday. Good rock, good gear the whole way on this one.
I thought the "High Life" start was a bit more fun start for P1. The leader can clip the High Life anchors then walk over to the anchors for PBR P1 and belay. |
By fivefun
Jul 22, 2012
| Low angle fun. Good rock and friction. Crux move feels like 5.9 if you're 6' tall and can hold body weight on a fist jam. Great climb if you can beat the heat. |
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Good route with a very fun crux.
Speaking of which, if you are short don't be discouraged. I am 5'7 and had no problem pulling the crux. A very unique move, but not harder than 5.9.
I agree with rick that the route would have people lining up to epic on it in the Valley, as well as the fact that the High Life variation is very good. Kinda like a more difficult Jellyroll Arch (Donner Summit), only different. |
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 30, 2012
| Sounds like a lot of people are still getting stuffed at the crux. Don't worry, if the move feels unreasonable, the whole thing goes at a very civilized 5.8 C1. |
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