|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Martin and Marie Dybala, 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,475|
|Submitted By: ||Jason D. Martin on Jan 1, 2006|
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the entire route from the bottom follow...
This route was named for the excellent dessert found at BJ's brewpub.
Pazookieland can be found just left of Birdland. Indeed, Pazookieland is an excellent alternative to the first two pitches of Birdland. From the top of the second pitch it is easy to access the Bighorn handcrack, Rawalpindi and the upper pitches of Birdland.
Pitch One:Start on a nice ledge just up and left of Birdland. This route follows the obvious cleft to the left of the previously mentioned route. Ascend the crack up to what looks like an overhanging offwidth. Bypass this on the left. It is not as hard as it looks and is easily protectable. Build a belay station above this at two small bushes. (5.7)
Pitch Two:Continue up and left, bypassing a second small roof. This is the crux of the pitch. After this section the climbing eases to low fifth class. Ascend to a large ledge where it is possible to look down at the belay station at the top of the second pitch of Birdland. You will be directly under the Bighorn handcrack. Build an anchor here. (5.7)
From this position, Bighorn can easily be climbed. To access Birdland, traverse into the middle of the the third pitch and continue up the route.
Standard Red Rock Rack to 3 inches.
|By Jason D. Martin|
Oct 12, 2006
These two pitches are the same pitches described for the start of Rawalpindi.