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GPS: -40.88371, 172.81093
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Shared By: James23 on Aug 8, 2007 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Limestone sport crag with a good variety of routes, I think about 250. Some great overhangs, but mostly vertical with a few slabs. Most of the belays are somewhat shaded, but you have a wonderful view of the green countryside at the top. There is an additional cliff 15 minutes away with sunny, open routes directly across the road from the sea.

Also, check out Acid Test....a wicked inverted boulder problem over a glacial stream, on the opposite side of the road. First 15 ft is easy, but I was told there were only a handful of people who'd made it over the tip.

I'll add some more specifics once I find my travel journal, but feel free to edit, as my posting will never be even remotely complete.

Getting There Suggest change

North end of south island. Main access trail has numbered trails leading off of it, making finding routes super easy. There was a private climbers camp that was just a couple min walk from the crag.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paynes Ford

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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