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Pay Day 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Diesen
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 20, 2009
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Amy pulling the final roof.

Description 

Super fun over bolted climbing (must have been pay day when I bought the bolts) past 3 roofs. Delicately climb grungy corner then step onto right face. Work up past bolts to the obvious crack in the roof. Pull over roof at crack then climb up corner to another roof. Climb over right side of roof and on up corner. Where right face goes blank step onto left face and clip bolt. Use a long sling to minimize rope drag. Climb left face to top of bulge then pull final roof (crux) and climb thin steep face to anchors. Strenuous climbing at grade. The bottom of this route is still being cleaned. Stay off the left side of the bottom corner.


Location 

In the corner on the right side of face were Now and Later starts.


Protection 

16 bolts, chain anchors. When descending use care. A 60 meter rope will just barely get you down.



Photos of Pay Day Slideshow Add Photo
Amy's turn.
Amy's turn.
Starting up the hard bouldery start.
Starting up the hard bouldery start.
Mike at the anchors of Pay Day
Mike at the anchors of Pay Day
About 1/3 of the way up.
About 1/3 of the way up.
Amy way up the route.
Amy way up the route.
Pull through the top crux just before the anchors.
Pull through the top crux just before the anchors.
pay day
pay day
Comments on Pay Day Add Comment
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By Neil Barrett
From: Sierra Vista
Jan 20, 2009

Awesome route Mike. Thanks for all your efforts.

This is a very fun route and I predict it will become the favorite of Sweet Rock. It really has everything; under clings, slabs, overhangs, body wedges, laybacks, and balancy little crimpers. No one move is more then 5.9, but it's long so my hands got tired towards the top when you pull over the layback and have to fight for that last few feet.

It looks intimidating from below. As you go over the second crux move, about 50 feet up, all you can see from the bottom is a very smooth wall, but rest assured if you move to the out of sight left side of the crack, life is good. Here there is a nice place to stand and enjoy the view and rest for a minute before you tackle the final layback crux.

Bolt placement is solid with good holds for clipping-in. The big rocks have been cleaned, though you may want to belay back away from the wall as little stones and pebbles are still coming off. With a few more people climbing it, that shouldn't take too long. If you don't mind not seeing the climber when you belay, there's a well protected spot just to the right of the start that is under a roof.

By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Awesome climb! My favorite at sweet rock. I found the crux to actually be the very start of the climb in the crappy rock at the bottom. From there the climb is awesome! The second roof is my favorite move of the climb, if not my favorite move ive ever done. Great work Mike!

By Tod Gunter
From: Hailey, ID
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Just climbed it last week and it was my favorite of the trip! With lots of stemming I found it not too strenuous and right on the money at 5.9. I agree that the bottom was harder for me than the top.
Thanks for all the development that is making Cochise a place for mere mortals to have fun too!

By Dwook
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun Route, the bottom has a boulder move sorta have a spotter ready. I did this in my guide shoes and flew up it on TR to get a photo of us flying a kite on the Top of another climb...I would say this is prob the best route on Sweet rock just for its sustained fun climbing. This is good for the beginner leader who wants to become more comfortable sport leading. I have to agree that it is over bolted though...but then again who am I to complain. Thanks for setting this route up.

By BAd
Dec 31, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Excellent. I good way to take the sting out of the weird start is to stick clip the second bolt. The start is by far the crux, so if you blow the second clip, a grounder might be possible.

Sorry, Dwook. No way this is 5.8+. I think the stated rating is about right, although most of it is a bit easier after the start.

By Matt Riddle
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I've had a lengthy layoff and am getting back into the swing of things and Pay Day was the perfect route. I found that there were no great holds on any of the moves but the entire route was just so that all the holds were just enough to pull a move. Also, it felt an awful lot like you'd pull a move and then you would have an easy resting place, so it was consistently, work, rest, work, rest, work.

I believe it was 16 bolts in all and it ate up most of my 60 m rope, so be prepared. If you have any longer runners, use them to prevent some rope drag in a couple places. Be careful on some of the moves; it's not a clean face by any means and a fall may mean you could partially deck out, even if it is 10 bolts in. I was cognizant of that and climbed accordingly, so I felt safe.

Well bolted, excellent line. I had a blast and was stoked that I was ready for a Stronghold 5.9. That rust breaks off fast.