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Elevation: 257 ft
GPS: 43.08391, -71.17542
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,467,145 total · 7,078/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Overview Suggest change

Located in Nottingham, NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southernmost of the major climbing destinations in the state. Hundreds of glacial erratic boulders line the forests while the assorted and scattered crags stay mostly out of sight. The three small mountains of Pawtuckaway are the remains of a ring dike formed by an extinct volcano and the rock is a smooth but fully textured granite of a different quality than the climbing elsewhere in this so-called Granite State. While the park is known primarily for its bouldering, which happens to be some of the best in the country, crack climbs of exceptional quality abound on the numerous crags alongside slabs and difficult face climbs. Between boulder problems and routes there are nearly a thousand climbs to be enjoyed, put up over the years by the likes of Dave Graham, Tim Kemple, Rio Rose, Brett Meyers, John Sirois, Dean Potter, Charlie Bentley, and dedicated crews from UNH. In short, thereÂ’s plenty here for everyone. Grab a pad or a rack and come hone your skills before you unleash them on the world, or for those of you who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to. As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in Autumn but fun always.

Bouldering: There are nearly two dozen separate bouldering areas within the park of varying quality. At best, the high quality rock offers up ranges of styles and difficulties from V0 to V13. Between cracks, aretes, faces, slopers, crimps, highballs, and lowballs, every style is covered. The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire and the sometimes coarse, sometimes fine grained granite will quickly wear through your skin but you won't want to stop. The most popular spots are Boulder Natural, the Round Pond Boulders, and Blair Woods, although by no means is that the extent of the bouldering. Hidden gems are scattered throughout the park, most of which didn't make it into the guidebook. Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks.
Seth having his heel pop.

Trad and Top Roping: The Lower Slabs, Upper Cliff, Devils Den and more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes. The Upper Cliff and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings, so venture out to one of the other crags if things are taken. A 5-10 minute walk will get you to either the Lower Cliff, the Dome, or the Ridgeline/Small Walls. The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches as well as a few multipitch climbs (and fewer crowds). Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you.

Sport Climbing: There are a few bolted sport routes in Devil's Den, the Microwave Area, and at the Yellow Dog Wall with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. The age and quality of the bolts are questionable, some are brand new, some are decades old, so be wary.

Getting There Suggest change

Getting to the park is easy...Take exit 5 off of Rt 101 in Raymond NH, then follow signs, however, none of the climbing areas are accessed via the State Park entrance.

To reach Blair Woods or the Horse Farm Parking Area, continue on 156 and take a left onto Deerfield Rd.

For Blair, turn left at the boat launch sign and continue to the parking lot.

For the Horse Farm, continue past the boat ramp and turn left on to Round Pond Road (a short dirt road) to a parking area. If the parking area is full, park on the side of the paved road or risk being towed. From the parking area walk down the dirt road for a little under a mile until you reach round pond. to your left will be round pond bouldering area. To your right is Lake Side Crag and the Hillside Boulders, Walk beyond the hillside to get to upper cliff and lower slabs as well as Boulder Natural etc. There are a few signs to help with getting to the cliffs at this point.

To reach Reservation Rd, from Raymond take Rt 27 to Rt 107. Turn right on to Reservation Rd. Reservation road will turn to dirt. Continue down a curving hill and down more flat road. The most popular areas (boulder natural, round pond, upper cliffs and lower slabs etc.) are accessed by Turning left and driving through an orange gate (Gate #5). Follow the rough road for a few miles bearing left at one point and after a fairly steep often very rough hill look for parking. There are good pullouts a short walk before and after the Boulder Natural trailhead, please use those instead of trying to squeeze into the shoulders on busy days. Hike an obvious trail (on the left) for a few minutes to get to Boulder Natural, continue past to get to all other areas.

You may also drive right up to round pond and park there which is nice for Round pond boulders and Lakeside crag area.

Reservation Rd is closed in winter.

Bug Warning

Suggest change
The black flies and mosquitoes of Pawtuckaway don't mess around. They are out for blood and they will come after you like you killed their mother (and you may have on another trip.) Bring bug dope, long sleeves, pants, hats, hoods, and a shotgun to fend them off if you come in the spring or early summer. Fall is the time to be here, and by the time the kids are back in school the crowds at the popular crags and the bugs have gone away and the park is yours.

State Park & Camping Information

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The State Park has a nice family style campground and even has a few camp sites with boulders on them. (Check out site #4.)

Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.

Pawtuckaway State Park Website
Pawtuckaway State Park Map (PDF)
Pawtuckaway Campground;contractCode=NH&parkId=270061
Pine Acres Campground
Saddleback Campground

983 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: *Pawtuckaway Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pawtuckaway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 154
Cream
Boulder
V2 5+
 126
The Whip
Boulder
V4 6B
 242
Overlooked
Boulder
V4 6B
 85
Vintage
Boulder
V4 6B
 85
Poseidon
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 46
Brett Does Lawn Jobs (aka.- Keep…
Boulder
V6 7A
 148
Ride the Lightning
Boulder
V6 7A
 119
Terrorist
Boulder
V6 7A
 70
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 87
Maxim
Boulder
V7 7A+
 89
The Rose (of Confrontation)
Boulder
V8 7B
 78
Dopeman
Boulder
V8 7B
 60
Mothra Stewart
Boulder
V8 7B
 94
Leave It to Beaver
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 74
The Horn
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cream Round Pond > 03. Big & Tall
 154
V0+ 4+ Boulder
The Whip Round Pond > 04. The Whip
 126
V2 5+ Boulder
Overlooked Trailside Boulders
 242
V4 6B Boulder
Vintage Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders
 85
V4 6B Boulder
Poseidon Boulder Natural > Swamp Boulders > Chasm
 85
V4 6B Boulder
Brett Does Lawn Jobs (aka.-… Boulder Natural > Yosemite Boulder Area
 46
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Ride the Lightning Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders
 148
V6 7A Boulder
Terrorist Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders
 119
V6 7A Boulder
Red Right Hand aka Spitting… Devil's Den Bou… > Red Right Hand/ Unive…
 70
V6 7A Boulder
Maxim Round Pond > 03. Big & Tall
 87
V7- 7A+ Boulder
The Rose (of Confrontation) Blair Woods > Swirley Boulder
 89
V7 7A+ Boulder
Dopeman Round Pond > 04. The Whip
 78
V8 7B Boulder
Mothra Stewart Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders
 60
V8 7B Boulder
Leave It to Beaver Devil's Den Bou… > Beaver Area
 94
V8 7B Boulder
The Horn Upper Cliff
 74
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
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