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Pave Paradise 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian (from SLC) & Matt
Season: Gets PM sun
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Tony B on May 7, 2007
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Matt on the FA of Pave Paradise

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Description 

A pretty good climb and reasonably protected, but not entry-level at its grade. The route is mostly easier, but is a little technical and devious through the crux bulge.
This climb starts up as for 'Solo Mission' and follows that climb for perhaps 2/3 of its length before solo mission exits left onto a slab heading for a low angle corner. At that time, continue up some moderate but poorly protected rack in a shallow and rounded left-facing corner. A bolt will come into reach up and left (clip it) and then soon another as you reach the top of the corner, in a small roof. Clip the second bolt and do the crux to get established above the roof. The finish is moderate.


Location 

The climb starts as for 'Solo Mission' and deviates from it only in the last 40 to 50 feet.


Protection 

A standard rack for the 'Solo Mission' start, but with a few bolts for the independent climbing.



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Below the crux on Pave Paradise
Below the crux on Pave Paradise
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By Brian in SLC
May 7, 2007

Can also be broken into two pitches to reduce rope drag and/or better belay the leader on the crux.
I think if you're leading 5.10a, that the approach straight up from Dave's solo mission shouldn't give you too much pause. Some pro there, and, you get to a bolt reasonably soon.
I seem to dimly recall that we rappelled off this with one 60m rope and downclimbed to climber's right, but, best to use two ropes to be safe. Also, this rappel anchor is a nice option for when the other rap anchors are clogged with folks.
FA is Brian (uhh, me) and Matt.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 7, 2007

We rapped with a 70M. It was too close to say a 60M gets you down. so the downclimbing on a 60M must have been somewhat significant.

By Brian in SLC
May 7, 2007

Wasn't significant if I did it! Actually, I seem to recall we rappelled well to the climber's right, and ended up on the low angle ramp to the right (and sorta above) the start of the route. Our rope may have been a tad longer than 60m, too. Best to use two ropes, or, traverse over to the single rope rappel line on the far SW side of the formation (but, is a rope eater for sure).
Cheers!

By Ben Folsom
Aug 8, 2008

Nice route Brian, Maura and I did this a few weeks ago and enjoyed it.