|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Glenn Payan, Paul Starr, 1995|
|Submitted By:||Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007|
|Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Paul's Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fun stuff, easy first 10a. Fingers and tricky feet for the first 20 feet with a short crux where the finger crack ends and the features begin. You can protect these moves with a blue metolius at your knees and nothing above you. You'll be rewarded with beautiful jugs after a few moves though, so just punch it.
Crack seperates into two, both breaking left but one above the other. I found better pro and holds in the upper crack, but make sure to throw a few slings on your gear before breaking left. Good finger locks take you through the traverse section, and the difficulty drops significantly towards the top.
Gear blue metolius to a #2 Camalot. Doubles in fingers - tight hands if you want to sew it up.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Sinker finger-locks and straightforward toe jam for a single move, then it's just fun. Highly recommend protecting the belayer (sling a tree or place some low pro). I started up the face left of the crack before stepping back right, which may have avoided the off-the-ground crux, but there wasn't any tape to follow so it didn't feel like cheating.|