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Paul's Boutique
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in The Upper Great Face
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A Few Moments of Pleasure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Steep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Junkie T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Forgotten Pulse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Golden Monkey, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hotness, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paul's Boutique T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Tomfoolery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wiffle Ball Bat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor |
| Page Views: | 1,041 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | C T on Aug 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This route starts with the bolted line to the left of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1: Wander up nice face climbing past 12 bolts to a bolted anchor. At the 5th bolt, traverse right beneath a bulge to gain the 6th bolt (long runners useful to reduce rope drag). Move right just after the last bolt to reach the bolted belay anchor. (5.10, 100 feet.)
The first 10 bolts of pitch 1 were placed by an unknown party, and the line was previously left unfinished for several years.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the belay, then trend slightly left to the first bolt. Continue up nice face climbing past the second bolt, and gain a thin ledge. Climb thin moves past the third and fourth bolts to gain easier terrain. Easy climbing leads to the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). (90 feet, 5.10+.)
As of 6/20/12, it is a bit runout getting to the first bolt. Additional first bolt will be added soon.
Pitch 3: Start from the left side of the large belay ledge. Climb up the left side of the headwall past 6 bolts to easier terrain leading up and right to the bolted anchor shared with 'The Hotness' and 'Brass Junkie'. Gear can be placed after the last bolt. Directional protection can be placed after the last bolt for anyone toproping the pitch. (100 feet, 5.10+.)
Descent: lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel back to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1: Wander up nice face climbing past 12 bolts to a bolted anchor. At the 5th bolt, traverse right beneath a bulge to gain the 6th bolt (long runners useful to reduce rope drag). Move right just after the last bolt to reach the bolted belay anchor. (5.10, 100 feet.)
The first 10 bolts of pitch 1 were placed by an unknown party, and the line was previously left unfinished for several years.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the belay, then trend slightly left to the first bolt. Continue up nice face climbing past the second bolt, and gain a thin ledge. Climb thin moves past the third and fourth bolts to gain easier terrain. Easy climbing leads to the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). (90 feet, 5.10+.)
As of 6/20/12, it is a bit runout getting to the first bolt. Additional first bolt will be added soon.
- There are 2 giant detached flakes/blocks after the last bolt to the left of the route. They are completely avoidable.
Pitch 3: Start from the left side of the large belay ledge. Climb up the left side of the headwall past 6 bolts to easier terrain leading up and right to the bolted anchor shared with 'The Hotness' and 'Brass Junkie'. Gear can be placed after the last bolt. Directional protection can be placed after the last bolt for anyone toproping the pitch. (100 feet, 5.10+.)
Descent: lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel back to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.
Location
'Paul's Boutique' starts about 10 to 15 feet left of the start of 'The Big Steep ', next to a large pine tree growing very close to the wall.
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