|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Probably the Alpenbock Club|
|Submitted By:||Orphaned on Oct 2, 2008|
|Comments on Patty's Ridge||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 10, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|There's a really nice, 30ft splitter finger crack about 2/3rd of the way up the ridge.|
By Tristan Higbee
Jun 16, 2012
We did it in three pitches and it added up to about 500' long total. The pitch lengths are very approximate.
Pitch 1: Start around the left side of the ridge, not too far above the stream, and head up one of the corner/crack systems. Belay at a flat stance on the ridge. 120'.
Pitch 2: Gingerly scramble through some dark quartzite until you're on the great, exposed arete/ridge. Climb the whole of the arete and belay partway up a dihedral on a stance/ledge made up of rickety blocks. 220'. (Note that you might not make it to the belay spot even with a 70m rope if you don't belay high enough at the top of pitch 1.)
Pitch 3: Climb the rest of the way up the nice dihedral until it ends at a flat spot, then move left. Climb a steep, short hand crack (route crux) and then another short arete section until it flattens out and the ridge pretty much ends. 150'.
Descent: Again, this is how we did it so take it for what it's worth. From the top-out spot, unrope and walk along a faint trail up the right side of what was the ridge until you can drop down into a gully. Follow this gully for a while; no bushwhacking is really required. If you get to a point where there's a steep cliff dropoff, head 50 feet back up the gully and look for a notch heading into another gully (the notch will be on you're right as you're looking back up the gully). From there, follow the scree slope down. When it heads, contour right against the cliff until you're back at the stream and the Stairs Gulch trail.
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 18, 2012
Tristan was kind enough to take me up this route and put up with my blabbering. His beta is right on. I would add just a few things.
It may be worth noting that the start of the exposed ridge is truly knife edge, as in: razor sharp! A rope loaded over this edge would surely cut like butter. And since its a travers, the rope wouldn't just load over the edge, but skid along it too.
Also, poison oak (or ivey or whatever) grows at the start of the route, so be aware of that.
The crux section Tristan mention is, in my opinion, harder than 5.5. Perhaps different route finding can keep the whole thing 5.5; I don't know.
Lastly, perhaps our estimation of the route came up shorter than the beta we were given, because we actually didn't finish the route. There was more ridge to go, but it looked more scrambly and 4th classy than rock climbing. Perhaps a better descent laid beyond that; I don't know. Anyhow, I believe we finished up all the 5th class stuff, and found a reasonable way to walk out.
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
|Look at Tristan's excellent Beta photo of the ridge. I added some comments about a reasonable descent route.|