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Finger Flatiron
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Patience 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: C. Baroody, B.C. Haney 1989
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 14, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The line.
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  • Description 

    This is a short but strikingly beautiful, bolted line on N face of The Finger Flatiron. Beware, it can be mistaken for the route Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit by the unsuspecting (like me). Find this line as the R-most line on the true N face. This differs from Rossiter's description in 'Flatiron Climbs.' It's lack of sun and coarse rock warrants long sleeves and long pants.

    3 stars for aesthetics, 1.5 stars for rock quality, 2 stars for climbing, 2 stars for position.

    Scramble either from the N or down a slot from below the NW face to the slot below the climb. You can climb directly up the face in the slot or, more easily, chimney between the face and the flake to its apex. Stem across and clip the first bolt. Best to start with your R foot on the wall. Move L to jugs and then up on good holds to the second bolt. A long reach L to an undercling ends the moderate climbing. Then you starts into the business on either small painful crimps or slopers that get relentlessly smaller until the anchors. Clipping the 3rd and 4th bolts will be challenging. Clipping the anchors on the rippled slab will be more challenging. It packs a punch, especially for the unsuspecting. 40 feet.


    Protection 

    4QDs, slings for the 2-bolt anchor



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