Patience Face 5.12a
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Good page? (4 likes)   |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Paul Glover |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | spring, summer, fall |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face.
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Description This is a 35-meter lead on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right off the Mallory Cave trail. It climbs nice tan and maroon stone down low to a long black streak/rib that goes to the top of the wall. You must ABSOLUTELY USE A 70-METER ROPE FOR THIS CLIMB!!!
Originally done as a toprope, this is now a 14-bolt lead. Climb the first five bolts of The Shaft to a resting pod, then step right to the other, wider black streak/tufa thing. Follow this past nine more bolts all the way to the top of the wall on nice dark rock, with a handful of intricate cruxes separated by 5.10/5.11 climbing and some other rests. Definitely a voyage...Double-bolt anchors are a bit left at the lip so the rope will run better; unclip the last draw while lowering to reduce wear on your cord.
There are a few no-hands rests ("pods") here and there, but plenty of cruxes in between, including one at the top. We named all the pods, too -- seemed funny at the time.
Pre Pod, Pinkler Pod, Love Pod, Post Pod....
Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.
Location This is slightly east (left) of center on the north face of Dinosaur Rock.
Protection 14 bolt to double-bolt anchors.
BETA PHOTO: A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight...
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Kevin showing his Patience.
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| Comments on Patience Face |
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 18, 2008
| Nice work, Matt. I always looked at this thing and knew it should get done but was always scared off by the lack of gear. Glad to see it's a quality line, even on TR. |
By Rich Farnham
Jul 6, 2009
| Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference. |
By Pinklebear
Jun 10, 2011
| The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the only proposal submitted so far (for this climb, Patience Face), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>.
You can also leave comments on the proposed climb at the above link. |
By Pinklebear
Mar 27, 2012
| This route is now a lead climb: 14 bolts (first five shared with The Shaft, before heading right to the wide black streak) to a double-bolt anchor at the lip.
MANDATORY 70-METER ROPE. And did I mention that a 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY? Also, it's helpful to put a long sling on the fifth bolt for rope drag. Longer-longish draws might help here and there in other places too. Also helpful to unclip the last bolt when lowering, as it's a few feet right of the anchor and can cause your rope to rub.
Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.
Enjoy! |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Jun 22, 2012
| Patience Face is an accurate name. Be patient when resting and deciphering beta and success will be yours.
I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m. |
By Rui Ferreira
From: St Ismier (Grenoble), France
Sep 1, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Glad to finally see this bolted! It has been a long time coming since I first threw a top rope on this back in November of 2007. Patience pays off at the end. |
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