|Below The Old New Place
This squeezed bolted face climb is one of the more recent additions to the BONP, and is omitted from the guidebooks despite having been bolted in '97.
Scramble up the blocky crack at the start of Ralph's Dilemma, as you would for Flesh Eating Gnats, then step right and climb up the face left of the 'Gnats' arete. Crimp up fun and progressively thinning face to the last bolt, which is followed by an overhanging section to the chains. I thought the last move was the hardest, reachiest, and most strenuous move on the climb, with a powerful lieback to reach the holds to clip the chains. The crack to the left is assumed to be 'off', although it would be highly contrived to avoid using the crack below the first bolt.
The climb is perhaps offensive to some, because the anchors provide convenient pro for the crux roof traverse on the previously climbed crack to its left, Ralphs Dilemma.
The bolted climb left of Flesh Eating Gnats and right of the crack Ralphs Dilemma.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
Nathaniel may have been involved, but Walt Wehner actually bolted the route.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As George said, this route is a little contrived and definitely detracts from the aesthetics of Ralph's Dilemma. Maybe it shouldn't have been bolted, but now that has, it's worth climbing. Fun moves and a dynamic crux finish.