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Patent Pending 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,401
Submitted By: Colin Erskine on Feb 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Joel Thernau at the crux traverse.


Starts on the far left side of the bluff. Follow first four bolts to some big huecos. The climb is pretty straightforward to here. The next couple of moves between the fourth and fifth bolts are very sequency. Look for a crystal pocket just below the fifth bolt. After clipping the fifth bolt continue along through a cave to the sixth bolt and the anchor. Watch for loose rock.


Six bolts to the top. Hanging chains for anchors.

Photos of Patent Pending Slideshow Add Photo
Super-cold winter ascent party on Patent Pending. ...
Super-cold winter ascent party on Patent Pending. ...

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By Bingman
From: Denver, CO
Aug 25, 2008

This route has more history than it should: The local speed climb testpiece, the only Meader Wall route known to see a winter ascent (winter ascents only count if it's below zero degrees F) and the only known naked ascent of the wall.

Speed Record History (set on toprope, start behind the log, finish when the chains are slapped):

Ben Ingman 43 seconds
Colin Treiber 40
Travis Melin 38
B. Ingman 36
T. Melin 33
T. Melin 30.1
T. Melin 24.5

---Post route alteration speed records (set on toprope, start on starting holds, slap the chains)---

Travis "the local" Melin 30.5 sec

Car to Car: UN-ESTABLISHED (this is your chance kids!)

Door to Door: S. Dew, T. Melin (2008) TIME?

First Winter Ascent (FWA): George Forge, B. Ingman, T. Melin (2007)

First Naked Ascent (FNA): Greg Parker (2009)

If you break Melin's speed record, or set a car to car time, please post up.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thanks for putting this up Corey! Did you have the FA then? This was the first lead for a ton of climbers back in the day...I myself bailed off of it 3 times before I actually got to the chains when I was learning to lead. A three day effort bottom to top. So many fond memories...
By GregParker
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2009

Patent got pended! I went up on 4/28 and the right crimp crux hold is gone. The route is harder, but probably still 10d.
By GregParker
From: Denver, CO
May 1, 2009

First Naked Ascent (FNA): Greg Parker 2009, belay goes to Joe Simon
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
May 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

First naked ascent?!

Definitely harder than before. JW
By Rossy B.
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

So harder than before! 11a?

I think I like it better though!
By liz horn
May 8, 2009

That section where the hold broke is now a bit reachy if you're shorter... which I guess could be good if you want your warm-up to include stretching? Still worth doing, but it doesn't flow so nicely anymore.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Hood, TX
Oct 10, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

If you are a solid 5.10 to low 5.11 climber...this maybe a difficult route to on-site without beta.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Aug 14, 2015

As opposed to onsighting with beta? lol
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