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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
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Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spectator Sport T A2- |
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Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 640 ft (194 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FFA Bright and Drayna 1972 |
| Page Views: | 7,462 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Milhaupt on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
An offwidth climb that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly below Teacher's Lounge. The first two pitches move up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge. A much more attractive start for the 5.10 climber is to climb either New Wave or Broken Tree, both of which take more direct and pleasing lines to the Lounge. Pitch three moves straight left to the crack that splits the first two overhangs. Move up and over the overhangs (crux) and continue on sustained off-feet for another 100', belay at bolts (160'). Continue for another pitch and scramble to the summit, or rappel back to Teacher's Lounge. One can also toprope Patent Pending from the bolts on top of pitch 3, but it is a good lead.
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