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(09) The Far Side II
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Patchwork 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Isler
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Start to the right of Lonesome Dove, and left of a large prominent crack. Climb the chossy looking rock through the bottom two bolts. The crux is before the second bolt. Continue up through nice face climbing to a recess in the wall. From here, the climb completely changes character. Clip the 9th bolt and from here there are two ways. You can go left, which is easier but a pendulum fall could result in disaster. Heading straight up is the better choice.


Protection 

9 Bolts with chain anchors



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Not a great climb in my opinion. I think the online guide goes a bit overboard with 5 stars for this. The crux is not breaking a hold through the choss. And while the middle part is good, I didn't find the top all that much fun.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 17, 2006

Despite the weird, pointless roof boulder-problem finish, this route is very good. If you like crimping and you don't want to have to think too hard, this route is for you. IMO this one of the top ten routes at Palomas.

By Dave Wachter
Mar 2, 2008

I agree that this is a good route, with interesting and varied climbing. But the finish is 8 feet of ridiculous, awkward climbing off a ledge big enough to host a kegger, making a mockery of an otherwise sustained high-quality climb. I wouldn't go so far as to put in a new set of anchors below the ledge, but I'd certainly clip and lower off them if somebody else did.

By Dave Wachter
Aug 29, 2009

I'd like to recant my last comment about not wanting to go so far as to change the anchor. Just climbed the route again today - it really is as good as I remember it (the choss band has cleaned up nicely, and is now quite solid); however, the finish is still completely annoying. I will gladly place a second bolt beside the last bolt before the anchor (the one you can reach up and clip from the huge ledge), and add lowering clips. Doesn't look like Randy Eisler is on Mtn Project. Anybody know how to contact him?

By Dave Wachter
Sep 15, 2009

Hello...Randy? Ground control to Randy Eisler... Got some nice new Fixe sport anchors, got a drill, got time on my hands. If you don't mind increased traffic on your route and a milling herd of pesky moderate climbers running around the base with shit-eating grins, send in your moral support for addition of a new, lower anchor. Promise we'll leave your upper anchor be.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 11, 2009

Just talked to Randy tonight, he gives his blessing, sorry it took me so long to get a hold of him but I've been out of town/country for a couple of months.

Go ahead and add a bolt to make a lower anchor.

OH and I believe it is Isler, no E.

By Dave Wachter
Dec 22, 2009

Thanks, Lee and Randy. When the weather permits I'll throw in that extra bolt, with some good lowering anchors.

By Paul Davidson
Jan 5, 2010

Hmmm, might have to do this one a few more times if you add that anchor. I thought it was a nice, long (relatively speaking) climb but that weirdness at the top got old and made it no longer worth climbing.

Drill away Dave.

By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
May 9, 2010

I'm all for the new anchor. I went left at the top which turned out to be a very bad idea.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 22, 2011

Climbed this route recently. Dave let me know when you are ready and I'll help you bolt!!