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Patapsco State Park

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Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 
Woodstock Rock 

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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Saddleback Trail (Yellow)
The longest loop in the park and the only trail on which bikes are allowed. Near Clarksburg, MD
Fountainhead Regional Park
Fountainhead Regional Park Near Lake Ridge, VA
Loop 3
The most difficult, but most rewarding trail in Fountainhead Regional Park. Near Lake Ridge, VA
Yellow
Singletrack traveling through the hardwoods and along open farm fields Near Gaithersburg, MD
Schaeffer Farms Grand Tour
A nice spin around the main loops at Schaeffer Farms Near Gaithersburg, MD
White
Flowing, rolling trail. A great introduction to Schaeffer Farms Near Gaithersburg, MD
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Patapsco State Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Location: 39.2474, -76.7632 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,443
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.


Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Patapsco State Park:
Middle Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Ilchester
Browse More Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
Mike Carothers on Blue Rose

Blue Rose 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MD : Patapsco State Park : Ilchester
The classic route at Ilchester and maybe in all of Maryland. Packs three cruxes in 30 feet of climbing.A burly first move over the roof to a decent rest jug, tricky jams lead to a stance under the rood and the final "Blue Rose" move over the hang to finish. When you finish look at the large welt on the back of your right hand to find the Rose.A proud on-site for any Baltimore climber. This climb has been led, free-soloed, done blindfolded, aided, and probably climbed more than the all the...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
The Union Dam Tunnel. <br /> <br />A common occurrence while climbing in the Patapsco.
The Union Dam Tunnel.

A common occurrence while c...
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