|Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake or Leap Erickson as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.
The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper placement is here. Excellent rock and convenient rap anchor. Toproping is out of the question due to the huge rope drag; someone will have to second the leader to clean the gear. Pulling the rope after the rap is a bit tricky, pull to the far left.
Small to medium cams, one large stopper is really helpful on the slabby part of the crack above roof.
David getting ready to turn the roof on the sustai...
Looking up to the Pat Adams Dihedral
Pat Adams Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Pat Adams Dihedral
Mar 14, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13
Huh - I must have missed the rap anchor at the top last weekend. Are you talking about the anchor on the slab route to the right ( not on the top of PA )? Fixed purple tcu, way jacked up.
2007 edit - Fixed TCU still there, only in Josh is this .11b. I'd say .11+ for leaders placing gear. With this route if you pull one piece, you could ground.
|By Vernon Stiefel|
May 25, 2003
To the left of Leap Year Flake (5.7) is a fun bolted slab / face (7 bolts) that can be climbed to access PA's Dihedral. I assume this is Leap Erickson (10a/b), formerly a top rope.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 12, 2004
I thought placing gear was the crux on this one. Strenuous laybacking with glass for feet. So good!!
From: Oakland CA
Mar 27, 2009
aka 'The Murf Rejector' and possibly 'Murf Quits' in the future.
|By Russ Walling|
Jul 21, 2013
I heard something about this thing being "Murf Proof" so I decided not to freesolo it today.