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Past Lives 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T.Goss, M. Wells
Page Views: 3,121
Submitted By: jtwalter on Nov 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Past Lives

Description 

Another fun moderate multipitch route on Prophecy Wall, Past Lives offers good climbing on the varnished holds typical of other routes at Prophecy. The route faces north and goes up a pillar that is separated from the main wall. The route trends slightly left for the entire length.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Start of the base of the pillar and climb up and trend slightly left. Belay ledge midway up the pillar on two rappel bolts.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Continue up pillar past tricky crux with small holds to the top of the pillar. Belay bolts are just below the lip of the pillar.

Pitch 3 - (5.7, 25 feet - 3 bolts) Step off top of the pillar to main wall and climb to the top of main wall.

Descent - 3 rappels down route with a 60 meter rope. The first rappel is fairly straight forward to the top of the pillar. The second rappel drops you straight down the wide chasm between the pillar and the main wall, however. For the last 30 feet you're hanging free of the rock. You'll end up left of the belay ledge and need to push off the main wall with the left leg and make a small leap to the right to get to the last rappel station. Third rappel is basic.

Location 

Past Lives is located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, directly right of a black water streak. From the main trail head south at a large sandy area up the wash to a series of ramps. Scramble up the ramps to the base of the north facing pillar that is separated from the main wall.

Protection 

9 bolts, plus rappel bolts.


Photos of Past Lives Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Past Lives from the base of the Firs...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Past Lives from the base of the Firs...
Looking down from the top of the second pitch
Looking down from the top of the second pitch

Comments on Past Lives Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Nov 6, 2007

What are the routes just left of this in the shady alcove? They look very interesting.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 7, 2007

There's a pretty wide section of the main wall to the left of Past Lives that are listed as 'projects' in the guide book, including the black water streak. However, I did see bolts in that shady area you mention. I don't have any personal experience there but I'm sure that Outdoor Outlet would have information if they've been completed.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 18, 2007

With a 70m rope you can get down with a single rap from the top of the second pitch. You end up on a ledge from which you downclimb about 25 feet of 3rd class terrain.
By Jared R
Nov 11, 2009

This route is super fun. There is a fun crux on the first pitch as well as the second pitch. The third pitch is cool because you have to lean over a 15-20ft chasm to get onto the main wall. Super cool! Do it.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great exposure and positive holds make this an excellent climb. Pretty well protected and has excellent clipping stances. The third pitch is neat, but clocks in at maybe 5.5 and is very short.
By Tara Hansen
Mar 31, 2014

Climbed the first 2 pitches of this route, it was getting dark so we opted out of the 3rd pitch. P1 was a fun TR for me with the reachy crux (I'm short so most things seem reachy) P2 I lead & was my favorite climb of the day! Super fun exposure on small edges and some side pulls, but I was not a fan of the belay station at the top (very small shelf).
By Austin Harris
Apr 25, 2014

very fun and safe. sustained 5.8 climin with a few good 5.9 moves