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By SteveP
From tehachapi, CA
Jun 2, 2011
king
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 2, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
I do miss the fiddling and messin' with sizes and fit with the hexcentrics. Cams just plug in so fast, you lose that personal touch with the rock that hex nuts gave you time to develop. And when cams got boring, along came pre-bolted sport climbing!

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By Tradoholic
Jun 2, 2011
I regularly go without cams. A true master will lead without them I think.

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By Tradoholic
Jun 2, 2011
What's so funny pink pointer?

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Jun 3, 2011
Stabby
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?

I eagerly await your hex-only ascent of Luxury Liner, be sure to YouTube it.

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By Dustin B
From Steamboat
Jun 3, 2011
It's always a party.
passivism? I tried passivisim once, not in 'nam of course...

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By alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Jun 3, 2011
Start of Pitch 3
I'm an activist, I seldom even gear up with passive gear. And then I boast about it online how I made the send without nuts. It makes me feel elite.

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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jun 3, 2011
Me and Spearhead
Yes the old guys did, but they also had balls.

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By Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Jun 3, 2011
n cascades
I'm going to be an activist... from now on, only cams!

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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jun 3, 2011
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fu...
Willa wrote:
Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought. —Basho


A flute with no holes is not a flute. A doughnut with no hole . . . is a danish.
-The great philosopher Basho

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Jun 3, 2011
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?


As much as a love the passive, I find there are a few routes that have quite parallel side that are hard to protect with passives. Cams do the trick there. Ill whip all day on a solid hex for sure.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jun 3, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Brent Apgar wrote:
Yes the old guys did, but they also had balls.


Lack of other options probably had something to do with their testicular fortitude as well. It's funny, you don't really see those guys and gals of yore using an all passive rack nowadays.

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By Tradoholic
Jun 3, 2011
JLP wrote:
Your profile seems to have more of these than any other I have seen. It's so obvious you are a proginy of The Lake. It's good to know all those old guys are still around, keeping the 70's alive


Perhaps you misunderstand the term "pink-point"? It refers to the use of pre-placed gear, the epitome being sport climbing. I have done much "head-pointing" in which I inspect gear and moves on top rope although I always place gear on lead. I most definitely prefer the on-sight method but I am much too weak a climber to always employ it.

Goggle "Jason Huston" for an example of a shameless pink-pointer.

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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Jun 3, 2011
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
First off, I love placing my hexes early, nothing like running out of cams before the crux.
Second, bit of a thread drift, put does using fixed pro, such as a pin, make a climb a pink point in anybody's book?

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By Tradoholic
Jun 3, 2011
JLP wrote:
I think my misunderstanding is with your tick list. Help me out out here. Puffs Plus 5.4 .. BF OS PPro. ---> You did this with your boyfriend, onsight, with preplaced gear? I see you climb 5.13, but all I see are a load of 7-9's and a few 10's. Most of the other 13 climbers here have a whole lot of 12's.


"BF" = Barefoot. "OS" = Onsight. "PP" or "PPro" = Passive Pro.

My profile says I can follow sport 13, which I can. I climb mostly all trad and my profile says I lead 5.10d and follow 5.12a, which is true. I don't climb much sport hence the lack of 5.12.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jun 3, 2011
El Chorro
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?


Just make sure you have a hammer for the hexes... for when you're in parallel cracks.

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By Bill M
From Fort Collins, CO
Jun 5, 2011
I have started bringing along hexes again and have found that on many moderate routes (5.8, 5.9) there are many bomber placements. Plus I can most often use them to setup anchors, so I don't eat up the cams I would want for the next pitch.

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By mcarizona
From Flag
Jun 5, 2011
Wow Jason, sounds like you've HAD IT. Well I guess it's kinda weak at this point to hope that Nick Rhoades 'baby pass' (no, you can't watch my kid dude)is a photoshop aide job.

I've done some 'all nut ascent,' but have many more to go before I become a passiveist (is that a german word?)

Steve

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By Yarp
Jun 5, 2011
This thread is starting to get good.

Hate to say it Nick but ya had that comin'

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By Travis Spaulding
From Las Vegas, NV.
Jun 6, 2011
The first pitch belay on Chips and Salsa (5.3) Red...
Cory wrote:
A flute with no holes is not a flute. A doughnut with no hole . . . is a danish. -The great philosopher Basho


"Trying to be bitchin can come at the risk of being instead, a complete fool. But, not trying at all, and hence never risking being a fool, can come at the price of never being bitchin even once" - Chongo

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