Passive-Aggressive Disorder 5.10+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Kalakay, Bill Dockings (1999) |
| Season: | Summer to early Fall |
| Submitted By: | themostdirect on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Matt Seymour launching into second pitch crux unde...
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Description From the beginning, this route demands a good deal of attention. It is fair to say that the climbing is harder and bit more devious than Kalakay's other, more popular gem on the mountain, the Centennial Route. Generally speaking the line follows a few different weaknesses in the steep face east/right of the Centennial Route. There is a lot of good crack climbing, linked with some entertaining if not adventurous face climbing. Route finding is a bit demanding on the 5th pitch, with some heady face climbing and sparce gear placements.
The route finishes on the top pitches of the Centennial Route and exits via the same grassy ledges and raps. Three to the ground with a 60m rope.
Location The route lies in the steep gully, right of the Centennial Route base. The ideal way to do this route is to first climb the Centennial Route, then descend directly back towards the start, following the steep gully down. Ron Brunckhorst's Alpine Guide to Montana has a good topo that will help you locate P.A.D.'s start under the large eastern facing wall.
(Note: You do not want to descend this gully back to the base of the Centenial Route, I promise. After the raps head climbers right, down the gully and around if you want to get back to the base of the Centennial or Elbow Lake.)
Protection We had a fat rack with doubles to #3 Camalot and a fine selection of stoppers and brass, but that could be tuned down a bit.
A few bolts exist on the route, linking through a steep slabby section off of the fourth belay.
Jim Toman on the fourth pitch of Passive-Aggressiv...
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