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Passages 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bruce Rogers, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 6,809
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Dec 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Climbing through the roof sections of Passages.

Description 

Take the large left-facing corner using the crack and face to a leftward traverse towards the top (crux) finish at chains. Overall, this route is great with interesting and diverse moves, good rests, and an exciting finish.

Location 

After turning right at the waterfall follow the trail a short ways. Passages takes a very obvous large left-facing corner. See pic for a visual.

Protection 

Standard rack. The bottom section will take some larger pieces (i.e., # 4 WC Friend or equivalent). Save some mid-sized stoppers and small cams for the top.


Photos of Passages Slideshow Add Photo
Great 8.
BETA PHOTO: Great 8.
Corey near just below the crux of Passages
BETA PHOTO: Corey near just below the crux of Passages
Close-up of second roof. I placed a TCU under the first roof and then got a little sketched pulling the moves for the second roof. I put a #3 stopper in a little seam, but it only fit halfway in. I down-climbed and put in a #2 (yellow sling in photo). Felt fine and finished the climb at that point.
BETA PHOTO: Close-up of second roof. I placed a TCU under the ...
t-wall
t-wall

Comments on Passages Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This excellent route is seriously underrated with just one star in the Cragger; I think it's even better than Prerequisite. Solid 5.8 lead with great gear placements (at least until you get near the top). Loads of fun!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Feb 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd say there's no reason for a "+" on this one. Great route for fledgling .8 leaders. Great gear, easy to place @ crux, etc...
By 426
Mar 20, 2007

Tricky crux pro for the novice mebbe...
By nickpoppel
Sep 29, 2009

Great climb with good gear. Great crack, face and roof moves. Bring a long runner to manage rope drag. 3-4 star worthy for sure.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 2, 2011

Passages is one of the best 5.8's I have done anywhere. It feels like a perfect rock climb.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent route, crux is full value
By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great 5.8!
Did not anticipate the crux near the finish, and therefore did not bring the gear. Makes for a pretty spicy top out! If you are not confident in placing good gear, be extra careful in the roofs.
By Michael Smith
From: Framingham, MA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the route is absolutely fantastic. however, i will say the gear at the top is tough. definitely could scare a beginner. get on it though.
By Chopper
Oct 6, 2013

The crux is protected by a yellow alien or similar size piece. A local told me to save this piece
for the top when it gets blank and to look out left for a matchbox car slot. I figured its only fair to pass this along.