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Boulder Slips
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Boulder Slips T,TR 
Brand New Bosch S 
Colorado Senior Open T,S 
Edges and Ledges S 
Family Guy T,S 
La Lune S 
Minutia T 
Minutia Arete TR 
My Way T,S 
Party Time! T,S 
Pumpkin Corner T 
Ride, The T,S 
Same As It Ever Was T,S 
Sunlight Arete S 
Threshold Variation T,TR 
Threshold, The T 
Throttle, The T,TR 
Useless One T,TR 
Where's Bob? T,S 

Party Time! 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 10/15/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Boulder Slips.
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  • Description 

    Nine climbers and two dogs at Boulder Slips on Sunday 10/15/06; it was Party Time!

    This route has a nice mix of climbing: corner, arete, finger crack, and hand/fist crack. It lies halfway between Brand New Bosch and Minutia on the left side of Boulder Slips.

    Start at the base of the slab where Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia also start. Climb up broken rock to a right-facing corner between Brand New Bosch and Minutia. Climb the corner past two bolts to a nice ledge (shared with Brand New Bosch). Step right and continue up a right-facing corner and arete past three more bolts to a finger crack. Place a medium wired nut, move up, and place a red Alien or #0.5 purple Camalot. Climb the finger crack to a ledge, then climb a short hand and fist crack in a right-facing corner to the anchors (#2, #3 Camalots, optional #4 Camalot).

    Clip the lowering hooks out on the face to the right, and lower 95' back down.

    The route can be a little easier (8) or a little harder (9+/10a) depending on how soon you commit to the finger cracks and face midway up.


    Location 

    On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road, at the base of a broken slab. Same start as for Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia.


    Protection 

    5 bolts plus 4-5 gear placements to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Medium wired nut, #0.5, #2, #3 Camalots; optional #4 Camalot.



    Photos of Party Time! Slideshow Add Photo
    Low on the route.
    Low on the route.
    Bruno Haché moving right into the finger crack.
    Bruno Haché moving right into the finger crack.
    The approach slab toward Party Time. A small cam can be placed in the crack to the left en route to the first bolt.
    BETA PHOTO: The approach slab toward Party Time. A small cam c...
    Boulder Slips Route Overview <br /> <br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts <br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts <br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" <br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" <br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR <br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" <br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts <br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts <br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR <br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR <br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" <br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" <br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots <br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview

    1. Edges and Ledges,...
    Near the top.
    Near the top.
    Comments on Party Time! Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2006

    Another nice route with some interesting moves. Crux comes nearer the top when you have to step right back onto the face.

    By Nick Wilder
    Site Landlord
    From: The Bubble
    May 6, 2007

    Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing.

    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Oct 28, 2007

    Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise!

    Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt.

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 2, 2008

    On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route.

    By Dave Pilot
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 21, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO).

    By Sarah Meiser
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Apr 16, 2012

    I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go.

    By jamandbees
    From: Nederland, Colorado
    Nov 2, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I'd second Nick Wlder's comments about the 5.9 move after the last bolt but would say the offwidth boulder at the problem has a move also worth the grade if you stay inside the offwidth itself.

    There is a loose block about parallel with the first bolt: as you clip in to the second bolt, it looks like a natural foothold but moves a little. There is a hollow flake after the last bolt that felt like it'll definitely come away some day but not today. Sounds like Sarah Meiser's climbing partner may have taken the worst of it off, but it's still fragile.

    There's also a loose block on the right hand side as you are leaving the first finger crack: you'll see it. Fortunately, it's not even near where you need to be, but I touched it while investigating and it was very loose.

    Having said the above, this is one of the best climbs in Boulder Canyon. If the area gets a little clearer of loose rock, the climb itself is exciting. If you're a beginner trad leader, having five bolts immediately beneath you lends a certain sense of reassurance. Just be careful to judge rock condition!

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Feb 12, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    The rock seemed solid today so most of the loose rock must be gone. This is a good route (not so good with snow in the crack near the anchor).