One of the nicest moderate trad routes in the Red, and it takes good gear if you have it. The first pitch takes a few larger cams (perhaps to 4") and the scond pitch a standard light rack. Bolted belay/rap anchors make this climb a good first multi-pitch.
On the far right side of Fortress Wall, where it faces west you can walk right to a point where the first of two huge left-facing corners becomes visible. This is Party Time (5.7). Do not pass this and start up the second corner by mistake (Lost In Space, 5.10)
A few large cams for the leaning start, then head for the top on a standard rack. With a few longer slings, this could be done in a single pitch. But the bolted anchors make breaking it up quite easy.
Excellent 1st pitch of Party Time. A super flattering picture of me on Party Time....... View of the trad follower from the top of the firs...
|By Mark Cushman|
From: Cumming, GA
Nov 6, 2007
The first pitch is nothing to go out of your way for, but the second pitch is excellent!
Sep 30, 2010
Love this climb!!! Haven't been to Red River in decades (living in Utah now). Read the comment about the second pitch and was left scratching my head...but then knocked some cob webs out and remembered faintly that this was originally listed as having 3 pitches, the 3rd a worthless 15 feet to the top. We always run pitches 1 & 2 as one long pitch, though it's wise for the last one down to rap it in two pitches for the sake of rope retrieval. I had the good fortune of loosing the race with a setting sun during a full moon. The whole face was covered in moon light. It was incredible!!!!! Back in the day of hexes, this climb was rated 5.6.
|By Jordan K|
Mar 3, 2014
Great climb! Both pitches just eat gear so easy to protect, but yes, so #3 and even #3.5 or #4 Camelots are nice to have along (for both pitches). Second pitch is definitely the money pitch, but both are fun. Gorgeous view up top! Great intro to multi-pitch.
Nice new anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch, but the anchors for the first pitch have seen better days. The chains are showing very significant notches on the bolt hanger end.