|224 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Caunt, Charlie Fowler, Troy Johnson, Kurt Smith (1987)|
|Submitted By: ||Bryan G on Feb 14, 2011|
This is a great little route under the Negative Pinnacle. You don't find many pitches of 5.10 face climbing on El Cap. The perfect series of positive edges and small shelves make the climbing improbably easy (especially considering that all the other routes in the vicinity range from 5.11+ to hard aid).
I don't usually use the "pg-13" grade, but it seems to perfectly describe this route. The bolts will keep you off the deck and the hardest sections are never far out, but this would be quite scary for any leader whose limit is 5.10b. Make sure you know how to mantle small foot-ledges, as the clipping stance for every bolt is guarded by a don't-blow-it-now mantle.
This is located on the SE Face of El Cap. From the Nose, follow the base to the right. Just past the Sickle Ledge raps, there is a tall recess in the wall. This is the Negative Pinnacle. Party Mix begins at the right end of this recess and angles up and left past 3 bolts.
3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap