Party in the Desert
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The lower portion of Party In The Desert (5.10b). ...
The Corral Wall is broken into two distinct halves which are separated by a deep chimney/gully system. This route takes a mixed line on the left side immediately right of a wide crack with some wedged boulders up high.
Easily the best climb at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. Clip a bolt on the headwall and make balancy moves up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to delicate steep edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.
The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite. Three stars out of five.
3 bolts (1/2"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (1/2")
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuc...
Setting up for the balancy crux moves at the seco...
Chris Parks climbs 'Party in the Desert' (10b). Ph...
BETA PHOTO: "Party In The Desert".
Photo by Blitzo.
|Comments on Party in the Desert
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 4, 2003
If I recall correctly (it was '95 I think), the crux is right BEFORE the second bolt. I remember because as I was trying to regain my balance after high-stepping, I fell before clipping it and took a 20-footer! Balancy indeed!
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
An intricate climb with lots of cool moves. My crux was after clipping the first bolt, I did a messy lunge move for the bottom of the third crack, smack my wrist.
Oct 8, 2006
Good route, probably my favorite at this crag.
|By C Miller|
Dec 27, 2006
All the bolts on this route have been replaced; it was somewhat surprising how easily the original 5/16" buttonheads came out.
Jan 22, 2007
Repeated use has polished the start of this thing to epic proportions. Entry moves seem harder than 10b to me, if only for a couple of moves.
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
Oct 1, 2007
IMO, the intial moves getting to the bottom of the crack was the crux. Getting to the third bolt seemed a bit of a mental crux. Excellent route! My first Josh .10b.
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Dec 20, 2007
more mental than anything
|By JOHN HYDE|
From: twentynine palms ca
Aug 13, 2009
great route, the crux is at the beginning of the route, it's very polished over time
Feb 24, 2010
In my opinion, this route is at least 5.11 off the deck. Our party of 3, all solid 5.10 climbers, was shut down on the start of this route.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Feb 24, 2010
The start is "worn out".
But, it's "The Monument" so the first ten feet don't count.
Rating stays the same.
|By T. Alston|
Jun 2, 2012
Nice to hear so many people are enjoying this route. Party in the Desert and Exfoliation Confrontation were put up on the same weekend in Feb. 1990. First routes on the Corral Wall.
|By Kevin Dahlstrom|
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 9, 2012
OK, I get it that ratings are "old school" at JTree but this is ridiculous. The first few moves are nowhere near 5.10b. Maybe not even 5.11b.
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 19, 2012
^^^ "maybe not even .11b."
Get real, dude. My girlfriend did the move first try and she's no .11b climber. One left sidepull with foot in opposition gets you onto a better right foot and then the crack.
|By MikeP ROWCC|
Feb 19, 2013
Didn't find the start as hard as some people on here. It was certainly sequential and started with a high step sidepull to get going. A couple of slick footholds gets you into a 5.8 crack with bomber gear. The second bolt was spicy! Almost barndoored off! A little runout beyond that but the climbing lets up.
|By Rob M|
Mar 11, 2013
Start is very polished and IMHO a 10c move, maybe d, at least with my towering 5'9" frame. A longer reach could probably get a better hand and smear the feet.
No longer a 10b folks. Will try the sidepull next time and re-evaluate.