|By bradley white |
Apr 23, 2014
my dream for this year are new routes. I am 30 years into lyme disease and been fracked up for many years and confident too climb. hiking to ledges, never mind, I'll get there. AMA demanded I not climb last year and I did a couple of new ones anyway. Like the turtle wins the race, this old turtle can still climb new routes. AMA is likely this year to think i should not climb. i know what keeps me going, climbing. Should not drive a car unless emergency and license is valid. Don't own car. Muir direct on Cannon alpine style, no drill new route to do. Will drill the pin cracks slab below our mine's i. i can do the two slab routes alone here, and it will take a couple of days. Zealand notch whitewall cliff south side will be very hard alone, basically free solo trailing rope and little gear for crux or escape. not into it and not impossible. Zealand is a very long day of driving, 4 miles hiking in and then climbing. If alone i'll be camping (sleeping) below cliff at the river. Everywhere I need transportation and going to Rumney, from down town Plymouth i live shouldn't be that far out of the way to pick me up. i would like to start with two routes in Rumney, both I can do alone, are off of the hinderland trail. Need to set up access and finish guillotine on wonderwall and magnum opus. there is a strange hidden route that goes up to the top of hole in the wall and that is one of these first two i'll do. I'm up for remaking Jolt. I could go to muir on Cannon in may and i will get in shape on the climb. i also would like to finish pop sick hill needs bolt ladder and shady grove needs a few. Both need drilling and use and lead with power drill (can be very dangerous). my budget will have to come up with the funds to purchase bolts. i'm willing in my condition and there is uncertainty because lyme causes cramps and in the past i have told partners to leave me where ever and get yourself down first, rescue me afterward. not going to sandbag anyone, the routes that are new always have some trick or treats up their sleeve besides myself. after climbing cannon, hiking down i am always wobbly, off balance from exhaustion and tend to fall. i feel alone being an extreme alpinist and group effort is okay. falcons are supposed to be nesting at main cliff, there is my old aid route i'm going to take to the top. that route will have too wait. once again i find myself without partners. 5.8 protected is about my limit now leading. its been a couple of years passed from leading 5.10. Most climbers have no interest in what i climb. the partners over many years i have educated on the mountain to be alpinist and only one injury has happened from partner's lead fall. we were able to finish and walk down. i get banged up regularly, no big deal, have more days remaining too educate again. Prepared to not lead and be guide but there will be times of blind trust, then i'll lead. will go to Rumney by thumb and that sucks. up for it? email me, what say you?