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Partner wanted for Split Mtn East Couloir (May22-26)
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By ElGreco
May 13, 2014

I was scheduled to go up there but my partner is injured. If anyone is interested in doing it over Memorial Day weekend, email me. I could also take May22-23 off: george.peridas[at]gmail.com

This is a snow climb in a prominent gully that splits the mountain in two and gives it its name. Intel says that the couloir is still filled in and the lower water ice pitches may be in for some swings!


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By Rudy Gustafson
May 15, 2014

How much water ice might there be lower down?


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By ElGreco
May 15, 2014

As I understand it, if the ice is "in", there is a short (20ft?) section of WI2-3 to enter the couloir, and also a ~70ft WI4 headwall a few hundred feet after that. The rest is usually snow.

Some have expressed doubts, but someone recently paraglided over it and the report was good! www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2406517/Split-Mountain-East>>>

It's also been consistently pretty cold high up recently, and will chill even more in the coming days. Snowmelt during the day and cold temps at night seem to form the ice. Two years ago, after a dry year and a cold spell again we scored great ice in the Clyde Couloir:


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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
May 15, 2014
Mexico, Mang

ElGreco wrote:
As I understand it, if the ice is "in", there is a short (20ft?) section of WI2-3 to enter the couloir, and also a ~70ft WI4 headwall a few hundred feet after that. The rest is usually snow. Some have expressed doubts, but someone recently paraglided over it and the report was good! www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2406517/Split-Mountain-East>>> It's also been consistently pretty cold high up recently, and will chill even more in the coming days. Snowmelt during the day and cold temps at night seem to form the ice. Two years ago, after a dry year and a cold spell again we scored great ice in the Clyde Couloir:


We were mega-jelly of your run in Clydes back then. Went to check it out shortly after, but my partner got sick on the way in. He might have saved our butts, I know you have to catch that one just right, pretty narrow if it's warm and things are coming down.


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By ElGreco
May 16, 2014

Seems pretty cold up there, people: forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.06992955400045&lon=>>>

Let's go get some stabs in! Email me if you are interested.


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