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P1: recommended start variation is Butterflies Are Free (100 feet, 5.9-)
P2: the huge dihedral with a crack (5.9) sits above the 3rd class ramp. Very sustained. In some places no real features for stemming. Left wall below the offwith was dripping wet but I was able to use the right side "ramp" and stemming to move into the overhanging offwith. It felt more like 5.10. Stand up, and high reach will get you to better, if rounded, holds and exit.
Approach - see Butterflies Are Free. Descent: walk on slabs and gain thin trail at the top of the cliff, walk right maybe 300feet, then down through some slabs and drainage where you see rock band on your left and right. On the right there would be some pine tops behind cliffs - that's where you get to 3rd class descent to rap slings on the pines (marked on the topo). Be careful; it's sandy/full of pine needles there. One exactly 100 feet rap gets you to the complicated terrain below the walls. Scramble to climber's left along the cliffs.
gear to 3" (blue camalot), doubles in #1 and #2.
BETA PHOTO: P2- The steep start leads to a good rest 20' up. ...
Looking up the awesome corner of Upper Partition
|By Jim Lawyer|
Nov 10, 2009
Once you've rappelled, you scramble climber's left (not skier's left) along the base of the cliff.
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
The Lawyer/Haas book says that the second pitch offers very few stems. I felt like I stemmed for the vast majority of the climb. Gear to 2". Double #.5-#2 in the BD C4 sizes will be helpful if in doubt. Take your time in the off-width section, it doesn't need to be hard (the crux is down low!) and there is bomber protection.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Very fun climb and very aesthetic when viewed from across the pass. I also agree with Greg; I stemmed pretty much all the time during this climb... and mind you, I am climbing in crappy shoes with blown-out toes.
|By Alex Mitchell|
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Amazing climb!! The large jugs pulling through the offwidth make for a good feeling after the sustained climbing below.
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I'd say gear to BD #3. There are a couple spots to go big and save the #1 pieces, which can go all over. I found quite a few stems and also good feet and great jams in the crack itself. I thought pitch one was okay. There is some great position in a crack up an outside corner. There is also some loose rock and vegetation but certainly not a pitch to be avoided. However, it doesn't even come near the quality of pitch 2. One of the very best at its grade/type in the park. On par with Frosted Mug, Slim Pickens, p1 of Gamesmanship, etc. When the airy position and how the corner looks from across the pass are figured in, Partition, in my opinion, is THE 8+/9 crack. Almost forgot about the hero finish through the overhanging OW....go climb it and see for yourself.
From: Reading, VT
Oct 14, 2013
One of the best corner climbs anywhere, especially considering the location. As a trad leader where 5.9 is about my limit, I found it comforting to have doubles in .5, .75, 1.0 and 2.0 - although I found there are other options in places. I was super happy to have two green Camalots(.75) For me the crux is the finishing offwidth - awkward and a bit in your face, but doable and very well protected! DO THIS ROUTE!!!