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Unsorted Routes:

Part of A Warmup Traverse 

Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V1+ Font: 5 [details]
FA: Toby Gerard?/Mike Dawson?/Ben Zietz?
Page Views: 1,976
Submitted By: Toby Gerard on Oct 14, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Tony giving it a go.

Description 

The crux is a small bump with the right hand coming up from a match on a huge jug in the center of the problem. Work those feet on the bottom!!!!


Location 

The route/traverse is located directly oppostite the Done Deal Dyno problem. The start is a match within the small cave and you then work your way right.


Protection 

A pad and a spotter will be enough.



Photos of Part of A Warmup Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Side view.
BETA PHOTO: Side view.
Really use your feet!
BETA PHOTO: Really use your feet!
Ben on the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Ben on the crux.
The problem.
BETA PHOTO: The problem.
T right before the bump up.
BETA PHOTO: T right before the bump up.
Devon giving it a try....
BETA PHOTO: Devon giving it a try....
The end...or is it...much more to the right.
BETA PHOTO: The end...or is it...much more to the right.
A picture of the route.
BETA PHOTO: A picture of the route.
Comments on Part of A Warmup Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Zietz
Oct 16, 2007

Come on, Toby, this problem moves from left to right, and I've known how to spell your name for years....

By Toby Gerard
From: Denver, CO
Oct 19, 2007

My bad, bro...I was way drunk...let's just squeeze some juice from those holds.

By sean connors
Jan 4, 2008

You guys must have gotten the F.A. a long time ago?! Funny, that I don't recall anybody ever calling this problem by that name. You guy's might want to get your shit together before claiming a F.A.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Oct 21, 2008
rating: V0 4

I would have to agree with Sean.... I'm sure that's been climbed before 2007....

By Rich Haase
Dec 7, 2008

This problem doesn't have a name. It's generally been considered a warm up for many years, probably as early as the areas initial development.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Oct 21, 2009
rating: V1 5

This problem is located within the middle of a nice long warm-up traverse. Start way left where the trail meets the wall on a large undercling flake, and go to the right. Where the "pod" that marks this problem is, you can go low, or straight across at chest height. Finish out to the right on a slab where you step-off onto a knife-edged rock buried in the dirt. As far as the earlier comments regrading first ascents.... Seems a little sketchy when an area is clean as this one is. A sound philosophy may be to do a little research into an area before claiming a first ascent (at least if all of the holds are clean.) Obviously if you are out there with the brush removing lichen for hours at a time, and have seen no evidence of prior activity, then it May be a first.... Also consider that the pioneers may have looked at it once, sent it, and never returned.... Hate it when that happens.

By Evan Petkash
May 25, 2011

I did a version of this a few years ago doing my best to track or keep my feet above the jug line until I got around the corner. Not really all that much harder, but it was pretty fun and was able to get some cool pics from the top of The Cube.

By sean g
Feb 11, 2012

I was curious if anyone had any information on the other problem that starts in the same place, but instead of traversing out right, you go straight up the bulge to the arete and two little pocket/crimps on the face then pop to the jug. It feels like at least V5, but of course I could be wrong. Any information would be great. Thanks.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Feb 12, 2012
rating: V0 4

Sean, I believe you're talking about Terrebilita.