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Parking Lot Aid Route (Armada de Molucca)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 979 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Jason Haas on Jul 8, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the thin, slightly overhanging crack a bit left of Latch Hand on the south face of Parking Lot Rock. Work up below a wedged block to get access to the crack and follow it to the top.
This thing should go free soon but it's a bit harder than it looks - a real bugger of a route for fat fingered people like me. You can clamber up to the wedged block about 10ft up and then stretch real far to get in a nut. From here you have the first crux move to get your feet on top of the block. It's a little heady because you're not that far off the ground yet. From there the crack is tips (for me) with some pods that open up and a higher crux just before the pseudo-jug. Gear is bountiful but strenuous to place. Wrap a large horn/feature up top with webbing and downclimb off to the right and then back.
Feels harder than Thin Ice and a touch harder than Allen's old project to the left of Thin Ice although it may be around the same grade as that if placing gear on it and not just toproping it. Somewhere in the 12+/13- range. I don't know, could be easier for all I know.
This thing should go free soon but it's a bit harder than it looks - a real bugger of a route for fat fingered people like me. You can clamber up to the wedged block about 10ft up and then stretch real far to get in a nut. From here you have the first crux move to get your feet on top of the block. It's a little heady because you're not that far off the ground yet. From there the crack is tips (for me) with some pods that open up and a higher crux just before the pseudo-jug. Gear is bountiful but strenuous to place. Wrap a large horn/feature up top with webbing and downclimb off to the right and then back.
Feels harder than Thin Ice and a touch harder than Allen's old project to the left of Thin Ice although it may be around the same grade as that if placing gear on it and not just toproping it. Somewhere in the 12+/13- range. I don't know, could be easier for all I know.
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