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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Park Politics 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007

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Above the thin start, but still below the crux. (t...

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Description 

Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams

Location 

the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.

Protection 

lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)


Comments on Park Politics Add Comment
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By TomKingsbury
Feb 11, 2008

It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 16, 2008

Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint.