Park Politics  5.11b R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Above the thin start, but still below the crux. (t...

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams

Location 

the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.

Protection 

lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)