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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Harkness variation 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Park Politics 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007
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Above the thin start, but still below the crux. (t...
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Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams


the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.


lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)

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By TomKingsbury
Feb 11, 2008

It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed.

By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 16, 2008

Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint.