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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
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Parental Guidance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doc Bayne and Mark Lassiter, 1992
Season: any when open for peregrines
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: andjoely on Oct 8, 2010

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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Climb 1st pitch of OR then walk right 200 feet to triple growth tree.
P2: (5.8) Climb straight up face to a 2 bolt anchor below a bulge (150 feet) P3: (5.8) Pull the bulge and continue up face to a belay at a bolt and gear (140 feet). P4: (5.12a) Climb up through a slightly less than vertical band of thin white rock past 3 bolts, then continue up to a gear belay in a horizontal (120 feet) P5: (5.11a) Climb up to a ledge with a bolt where the wall steepens and continue up and left past gear to a belay at a bolt and gear. (80 feet) P6: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and right past a bolt to a horizontal, then traverse right and climb past another bolt to a belay at a horizontal. P7: (5.8) Climb up and left on cool white crystal covered rock past one bolt to the top


Location 

200 feet right of top of 1st pitch of the OR


Protection 

standard rack to #3 camalot, perhaps double up on a couple sizes. Most of the key bolts are 10mm self drives and seemed to be in good condition, but a couple of the 8mm self drive bolts could probably use replacement sometime soon.



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