Parental Guidance is one of the best in Red Rocks. The first pitch alone is excellent, but the second is just as outrageous and not to be missed. These two can be linked together with careful runnering of gear thus eliminating a point of aid at the hanging belay.
P1 - 5.10d, 100': Takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.
P2 - 5.12a, 100': Pinch nipples off the belay (crux), then step right and back left and gun it up a massive, hollow flake to a few opportunities for gear. Thin climbing (second crux) up beautiful varnish leads to a good foothold and the anchor.
This climb is aptly named. Also, care should be used to protect the fragile rock on much of the route - pull gently.
Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One 60m is enough if you do two single-rope rappels - watch your ends.
The suspect hardware on P1 was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007.
The suspect hardware on P2 was replaced by the ASCA in March, 2014.
P1 of Parental Guidance...
Lots of good gear on this route
Sweet lieback at the top
|By L Stern|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 12, 2012
This was a really good route that seemed more like PG-13 once you clip the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt felt 10a-ish and it seemed much easier coming in from the left and avoiding that green Alien placement all together.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick clip first bolt and its not runnout. Clean thin moves on small holds (bolted) to great gear. The lower flake seems pretty bomber and likely would hold short fall on gear. The upper flake has a nice bolt to protect it so needs no gear. Felt safer than most of the other routes in this grade on the wall.
|By Kevin Dahlstrom|
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
One of the best 5.10 pitches I've done at Red Rocks! If you're sneaky you can protect the 10a moves to the first bolt. From the pillar, step up just a foot or two using a bomber incut left hand and plug a small cam (0.3 C4) behind a flake to your left that is more solid than it looks. Not quite bomber, but you only need this piece to protect one move up and to the right, where you can plug one or two small cams (C3's) under the small roof before you're fully committed to the roof (i.e. you can still back off easily if you get spooked). Once you've got those cams under the roof you're good to go - make another move right, grab the thin, fragile crimper below the roof, clip the bolt and go. Once you've clipped the first bolt, the rest of the route is very well protected.
|By Vlad S|
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I was mindblown by the quality of climbing on both pitches. The 1st pitch is worth doing on it's own, but the 2nd has some of the best rock on the whole wall. The crux though the first few bolts of p. 2 is very hard (crimping single digit polka-dots), but it's not as bad as keeping it together on the sustained climbing between the last 2 bolts. Every hold is in that section is just a bit slopey and small, but with excellent friction. I ended up breaking a non-essential incut flake at the huge rest just below the crux. There are two more obvious sidepulls just like that left. Beware - they are fairly fragile. Because of the sustained nature of the 2nd pitch, I wouldn't combine the pitches. Especially since the hardest bit is very balancey climbing comes after 55 m. Such a stellar route!