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 ADVANCED
Lakeside Rock - West Face
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An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 
Coyote Eggs T 
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 
Laura Scudders T 
Parental Guidance Suggested T 
Shit Sandwich T 
Thin Man's Nightmare T 
X-Rated Tits T 

Parental Guidance Suggested 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Orr, Brad Johnston 1976
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Nov 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Parental Guidance. Near the top. photo: Dave Roc...

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Description 

This route begins about forty feet right of X-rated Tits. Climb the left leaning groove and the higher crack system. This is a good route for a novice leader. It was my daughter's first lead at this level of difficulty.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Parental Guidance Suggested Slideshow Add Photo
Parental Guidance.  The soft crux is just beyond the cam stuffed in a pocket.  A mellow, aesthetic route in a fine place. We descended to the left from the top.  Photo: Dave Rockwell, belayer, Todd Bradley, climber John Ely. 2012
Parental Guidance. The soft crux is just beyond t...
"Parental Guidance Suggested". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Parental Guidance Suggested". Photo by ...

Comments on Parental Guidance Suggested Add Comment
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By Bo Johnston
Feb 5, 2005

Not sustained at the grade but a fun way to make it up the Lakeside Rock. Good pro and quality rock makes this less than a bomb and worth climbing.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed with most of above - decent rock, not sustained (not even sure where the 5.8 move is), adequate protection, perhaps interesting enough - good early lead for someone.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The 5.8 (?) move comes low down on the route and is easily protected by a small tricam. No "mental crux" for a rookie leader, and just a nice fun climb. Enjoy!
By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
Mar 17, 2014

Strongly disagree. This is NOT a beginner's lead. The crack portion of it is barely 5.8. The friction slab above the crack is plain dangerous. No matter how you spin it, there is no place for any kind of pro once you exit the crack system, but you still have half of the climb left. Granted, it is probably 5.6-5.7 friction, but you hit the ground if you slip. You gotta be very comfortable with slabs to lead this one.
By John Ely
From: DC
Apr 2, 2014

I don't want to start an argument with Artem, but as I recall - see the beta pics - it is easy to get a couple aliens or c3s in the arching crack in the upper slab. By Josh standards this is pg even up there.
By Kelly Corbin
Jul 30, 2014

This route is more than 70 feet, it's probably closer to 110 feet. We walked off to the left, using Bighorn Sheep pellets as cairns. Great route. The upper half of the climb takes small gear.