|Lakeside Rock - West Face
This route begins about forty feet right of X-rated Tits. Climb the left leaning groove and the higher crack system. This is a good route for a novice leader. It was my daughter's first lead at this level of difficulty.
Parental Guidance. The soft crux is just beyond t...
BETA PHOTO: "Parental Guidance Suggested".
Photo by Blitzo.
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 5, 2005
Not sustained at the grade but a fun way to make it up the Lakeside Rock. Good pro and quality rock makes this less than a bomb and worth climbing.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Agreed with most of above - decent rock, not sustained (not even sure where the 5.8 move is), adequate protection, perhaps interesting enough - good early lead for someone.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
The 5.8 (?) move comes low down on the route and is easily protected by a small tricam. No "mental crux" for a rookie leader, and just a nice fun climb. Enjoy!
|By Artem Lebedev|
From: Santa Monica, CA
Mar 17, 2014
Strongly disagree. This is NOT a beginner's lead. The crack portion of it is barely 5.8. The friction slab above the crack is plain dangerous. No matter how you spin it, there is no place for any kind of pro once you exit the crack system, but you still have half of the climb left. Granted, it is probably 5.6-5.7 friction, but you hit the ground if you slip. You gotta be very comfortable with slabs to lead this one.
|By John Ely|
Apr 2, 2014
I don't want to start an argument with Artem, but as I recall - see the beta pics - it is easy to get a couple aliens or c3s in the arching crack in the upper slab. By Josh standards this is pg even up there.
|By Kelly Corbin|
Jul 30, 2014
This route is more than 70 feet, it's probably closer to 110 feet. We walked off to the left, using Bighorn Sheep pellets as cairns. Great route. The upper half of the climb takes small gear.