Parental Abuse  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Mark Rolofson, 1994 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Feb 17, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Taking a top rope lap. Super fun moves.

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Description 

On the main right sector above Monkey Puzzle and before the scramble to Dan Hare's new routes is a fine seam and edge climb on near perfect stone. Scramble up to a bolt and swim past with an easy mantle to a broad flat ledge. Balance up some crisp edges to a jug just before the face begins to overhang. I used a couple of zig-zag moves through the overhanging face to catch jugs right and left of the seam, but you may just as well run the seam on thin tips. Parental Abuse is an excellent and continuous climb on very good stone (for this neck of the woods). Highly recommended.

Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos of Parental Abuse Slideshow

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Approaching the crux top section.	Entering the crux. Photo: Roth.	BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan sending the crux, notice new "Child Ab...