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This excellent new route on the Pino Wall sports superb stone and an amazing natural line.
Pitch 1 - Scramble 15 ft up easy terrain to gain the large right facing corner system that is the obvious landmark for this side of the wall. Climb the corner system passing a couple of bulges. At about 100ft you encounter the crux of this pitch leaving the corner system on the left through another bulge. Step around the corner to the left and climb up a few moves to step wildly right around an arete into another shallow right facing corner, climb this narrowing corner past a couple of small ledges to an exciting mantle and the belay anchors. 175ft 5.10c/d
Pitch 2 - A truly amazing pitch. Climb the steep corner above the belay, stemming, lie-backing, and exiting via face moves past a bolt. Rest on the lower angle slab before climbing up to another bolt and cool moves passing a bulge and shallow corner. Continue up a diagonal steep ramp and into a left facing corner to a roof, turn the roof on the right via a finger crack, then climb straight up to the belay. 90ft 5.12a/b
Pitch 3 - Climb straight up off the belay following a crack/seam until it ends, step left to nice cracks just right of corner system. Follow cracks on the face and the right facing corner straight up through a bulge and easier terrain above to a nice belay ledge on the left. 100ft 5.10d
Pitch 4 - Climb straight off the belay aiming for a weakness in the wall above. Climb through nice fins and knobs over the bulge and onto easier terrain above. 3/4 of the way up the pitch you encounter a wild pillar/flake, climb around or over this and continue face climbing to the top of the wall. 100ft 5.8+R
The route is located on the left side of the south face of Pino Wall. The route parallels License and a Visa, the start is 40ft left of the start of License... The best way to find the start is to rap in on License and a Visa or at least start by rapping in from that route's top anchors. If you choose to rap Parallel Universe you will rap a full 60m straight down from the top of License... this will bring you to the to anchors on top of pitch two of Parallel... two more raps, one short and on long will bring you directly to the start of the route. Once you've topped out simply reverse your approach back to the tram terminal.
Bring a few RPs or small stoppers in addition to a standard set of nuts, cams from .33 to 2", bring doubles from .5-1.5.
Pitch 1: belay bolts at the top
Pitch 2: a fixed nut, a good pin, 2 bolts and a bolted belay
Pitch 3: belay bolts at the top
Pitch 4: no fixed gear
Oct 25, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
Finally got to get on this climb after a few weeks of trying to make it happen. It is a great route and will be really nice once it gets a little traffic to clean off the lichen. I felt like the 3rd pitch was R once outta the seam off the belay when you go to make the traverse. The last pitch is R as well and you have to be careful when pulling on the knobs that you pull on. I was using one and it broke off causing me to take a tumble a little scary with no gear. Overall the route was a blast and the 12 pitch has such cool moves!
|By Josh Smith|
Oct 25, 2009
Rare to find such clean rock on a Sandias route, bottom to top, on such a terrific natural line. Highly recommended