Parallel Development  5.11- PG13

115 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  ??? Submitted By:  Tom Ormond on Aug 14, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mix following the route, the handrail can be seen ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Boltin' Bob D'Antonio has this as 10+ in his guide. I thought this was waay sandbagged. I am calling this 11- and severe. As a gunkie, I am a natural sandbagger but really only if you can pro it up nice...not the case here.

Start in the obvious, right-facing corner, and look up at the old scary bolt and hand rail going out left. This is your path.

Step on to the ramp/slab (unprotected and a bit hair raising) from here look left and get pro in the angling crack.

Then make burly committing moves to get the old scary bolt and clip it, stem and layback onto the jugs that make the handrail, and make burly traversing moves (heel hooking mixed with thrashing and thrutching movements) left away from the bolt. There is really no more pro to get (if there was good luck placing it) mantle on to the slab above at the end of the hand traverse.

Finish as for Filet of Soul or follow the thin seam just left to the chains by the tree.

ADDENDUM: I went back and cleaned out the handrail above the 1st bolt. This pros up better and there's another bolt above that.

Location 

This is just left of Convergence Corner.

Protection 

Not much to be had at the crux, except the old, scary, rusted bolt (3/8" though). Bring finger-sized pro for the cracks above the crux. It would be nice to replace this old bolt. Any thoughts?

Photos of Parallel Development Slideshow

Add Photo

The upper cracks.